Mechanical Clutch set-ups.....

[Anonymous]

Ok guys this is my story.....

Right now I have a new ZZ383 GM performance motor in my car. I'm trying to install a LS-1 T-56 transmission I bought out of a 01 SS Camaro

After problems trying to go with a Hydraulic set-up, I've decided to go with what I thought would be an easier mechanical set-up, and I'm running into problems with it....

Areas that we've figured out and seem to have working correctly are the Bellhousing, which I bought from OPG
http://www.opgi.com/product.asp

The clutch Fork, is the straight one for better geometry for the Z-Bar
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/60101/10002/-1

The Z-Bar, and all the other associated linkage parts are from a 78-81 G-Body. We re-located the push rod higher up for an easier throw, by drilling a new mounting hole higher up.

Now for the meat and potatos.....

The Flywheel is a RAM-1530
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RAM-1530/

The Pressure Plate, Diaphragm, Sprung Hub, 11 in. Disc Diameter is a McLeod 360801
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MCL-360801/

The Clutch is a McLeod 260571
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MCL-260571/

I'm also using the T-56 Mounting Adapter Plate from the GearBox
http://www.thegearbox.org/catalog/item/3838217/4803441.htm

And also using the Extended Pilot bushing
http://www.thegearbox.org/catalog/item/3838217/6239106.htm

Finally I went and installed an adjustable Clutch Fork Pivot Ball
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-3855G/

As for the Throw-out bearings I've tried 2, both GM parts (I dont have the parts numbers in front of me, sorry)....The first one is approx 1.25" high, and the second is 1.875" high

After all this, we can't get the clutch to disengage. We've adjusted it all we can, and the clutch is engaged no matter what, not allowing me to put it in gear.....

We called Forte's Parts, and they say that the Adapter plate I have is a knock-off of theirs (which was cheaper). They told me that they have everything I need to make this work (Flywheel, Clutch, Mounting plate).....They would give out part numbers, and I cant really blame them (they are in the business to sell parts, and not give free advice)...
http://www.fortesparts.com/

Right now I am seriously considering throwing back in an automatic, throwing away ALOT of money for nothing, and driving it.......

I am really, really, REALLY at the end of my patience, and starting to understand how people can start to have a drinking problem........

Anyone have any word's of wisdom, or suggestions as to what can be my problem?

 

[Doober]

I may just be blowing smoke because it looks like you've already done some homework, but here goes nothin'... hopefully it's some help.

By moving the rod up on the z-bar, you changed the ratio of the upper rod to the lower rod. Basically you shortened the travel of the lower rod. If you can lower the upper rod on the z-bar the same amount you raised the lower rod, it should help, if not eliminate your engagement issues altogether.

I'll give a basic example...

You originally have a z-bar with holes for the rods each 4" apart. If you move just the lower one up 1", you've actually shortened the travel about 1.4" through a 90º sweep (about .77" on a 45º sweep). I don't know what the actual angle of rotation is on the G-Body z-bar though. It's worth a look I say. At optimum I would probably lower the rod at the pedal too, just to keep the geometry the same. I'm quite tired right now, so that last bit about the pedal may not be right... I don't feel like doing any more math right now, maybe later today

 

[StreetBu]

The link for the bellhousing isnt working, But I'm wondering which one you used since your using a standard clutch fork. Doober sounds correct in gueesing that you dont have enough throw to disengage the clutch. Why did you drill a new hole and move the pushrod? If your using a regular GM bellhousing and clutch fork, thats alot of your problem, You cant. The fork will hit the floor and not allow enough travel and the geometry will be way off which may be why you moved the pushrod location? A little more info would be helpful.

 

[Doober]

I was kind of wondering about the bellhousing myself. Using the straight fork and a bellhousing that likely has a clutch fork stud in the 'regular' location, that's probably why it was moved. If it hits the floorboard though, it could cause engagement issues. Before I knew about the G-Body bellhousing, I'd tried one for a 168-tooth flywheel. The clutch would disengage enough for me to apply a little pressure to the shifter & slow the gears down enough for it to go into gear, but if it was in neutral, the pressure would still have enough pressure applied to start turning the internals of the trans again.

 

[Anonymous]

We found the problem we believe....the heads of the bolts holding the flywheel on were to thick, and rubbing on the clutch preventing it from working properly....

Changed the bolts over, press on the clutch pedal, and it frees up like it should

Real test tomorrow when the transmission goes back in

Fingers crossed

 

[Doober]

Good deal

 

[kevind]

I have a regular bellhousing and clutch fork I did have to dent My floor but it works fine and has since 94.

 

[t5montecarlo]

There are other bellhousings that will work properly with the Malibu bellcrank. No other mods are necessary.
http://garage-scene.com/t5-into-ag-body/t5_install_bellhousing.htm

I can only repeat what the others have already said.

 

[Doober]

If I didn't have another bellhousing to use, I would definitely be using the guide you posted