my T56 swap pictures, video, and info.


Dragway Regular
Thread starter
I had took welding shop in high school but we only learned oxy/acetylene torch brazing, and arc welding with sticks. It wasn't until I got my brothers together and we all chipped in and bought a Lincoln HD100 pack flux/mig welder for my dad 3 years ago for X-mas, that we basically taught our selves. I like the Lincoln we bought because it is still house 110, is set up as flux core at the moment (shielding gas is produced by the flux in the wire) but has provisions to be set up as a MIG (uses separate inert gas argon/c02). The flux core definitely creates more slag (tiny weld balls that surround the welding area) and MIG produces a cleaner weld without slag. Eventually I would like to buy a tank and regulator to do the swap maybe next X-mas. We also have a Millermatic 180 but uses a 220 line, this was my little brothers "make a wish" gift shortly before passing from cancer, but it too is also set up as flux core. I recommend to just get a welder and start practicing ha ha we use "L" frame from bed frames for most of our "projects" and our first project was a welding cart to hold the welder. we used bicycle traning wheels for the rear and old casters we had lying around for the front ha ha. works like a charm.


Dragway Regular
Thread starter
just tally'd up my total spending's on the swap the grand total came out to be 3,054.35

did not include cost of trans mount as I just transferred it from 700-r4
and the cost of the drive shaft as I just re-used mine as it was shortened for the 700-r4 swap as well.

700-r4 polyurethane trans mount and drive shaft = FREEBIE.

but I also recovered some money by selling the automatic stuff on craigslist
700-r4, converter, bow tie overdrives kit, custom tv cable = $ 600.00
factory F-body drive shaft (came with trans purchase) = $ 45.00
factory F-body manual pedal basket = $ 35.00
700-r4 dual hump (G-force) g-body cross member = $ 125.00
B&M megashifter 4 speed/3speed ratchet shifter = $ 75.00
total = 880.00

for a grand total of 2,174.35 not too shabby and I bet some one could do it for less especially if they already have the dual diaphragm booster installed in their vehicle.


Jul 30, 2012
I was wondering what hydraulic hose you used. Mine is a bit short like your original and since I have the booster out it's a good time to take care of it :mrgreen:


Dragway Regular
Thread starter
Any summit -03 braided brake line will work, but can't remember exact length I used. I deff over shot the length on mine just to be safe. You could prob get away with something way shorter and cheaper.

you will also need the AN adapters from nook n transmission to convert the ends on the master and slave cylinders to male -03 fittings, I looked and could only find -04 from them right now.

found this through a different site tho.

I also used a 90 degree female/male fitting to keep the line as far away from the last header tube on drivers side

.....good luck bleeding you're gonna need a vacuum pump and patience and a second pair of hands and a bottle of clutch fluid (or brake fluid). Hope this helps -Shawn
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