New build ran but now wont run.
- Thread starter 81GrandPrix383
- Start date
bracketchev1221 said:
That's what I thought but don't like to assume. Thanks.
I think my plan is to change the plugs and pinch off the fuel line at first.
Maybe pour a little gas into the carb and see if I can get it to fire.
Ok, when you found TDC, is that when you installed the distributor?
Here's my method.
Remove #1 spark plug. Put finger over the hole and bump the starter till it pops my finger off. I then put a ratchet on the crank and rotate it till the indicator lines up with my total timing mark on the balancer (38 degrees in my case). I then figure out where I want the distributor to sit rotation wise, then figure out where the oil pump shaft needs to be rotated so the distributor will drop right in. If it won't drop down all the way I pull the distributor and rotate the oil pump drive a little with a long handle flat blade screwdriver.
Once the distributor is in, I make sure the rotor lines up with the #1 spark plug wire, lightly snug the hold down.
This method the engine will fire 95% of the time assuming the carb has fuel.
Here's my method.
Remove #1 spark plug. Put finger over the hole and bump the starter till it pops my finger off. I then put a ratchet on the crank and rotate it till the indicator lines up with my total timing mark on the balancer (38 degrees in my case). I then figure out where I want the distributor to sit rotation wise, then figure out where the oil pump shaft needs to be rotated so the distributor will drop right in. If it won't drop down all the way I pull the distributor and rotate the oil pump drive a little with a long handle flat blade screwdriver.
Once the distributor is in, I make sure the rotor lines up with the #1 spark plug wire, lightly snug the hold down.
This method the engine will fire 95% of the time assuming the carb has fuel.
Your method and my method are very similar. My engine builder and I installed the distributor 6 months ago and I remember everything the same but don't know what he lined the pointer and balancer at.
the car has been run lots in the garage since and the distributor has not been back out.
the car has been run lots in the garage since and the distributor has not been back out.
I think the key thing with what I typed was to make sure not only TDC, but that the crank is rotated to the proper timing mark on the balancer. This will get your timing very close so it'll fire off quickly. I could be wrong, but I suspect your timing make be off.
TURNA said:
It was disconnected but not plugged. I have a plug ready for next time. Been told it doesn't really matter. Not sure how something doesn't matter unless it has to do that I have no vacuum canister.
Hogging my own thread now.
In the distributor, the button under the coil in the centre.... if the little spring was bent and twisted out of the way would this be bad?
Also, when I got my distributor it came with two buttons. Looks like a carbon one and a metal one. What's the difference. Why use one over the other?
In the distributor, the button under the coil in the centre.... if the little spring was bent and twisted out of the way would this be bad?
Also, when I got my distributor it came with two buttons. Looks like a carbon one and a metal one. What's the difference. Why use one over the other?
as long as that little spring is touching the center of ur coil it sould be good ...im not sure but i dont think it matters which button u use , depending on how big of a cam ur running im pretty sure ur running a bigger one in a 383 but u have to have a good amount of initial advance for it to fire up and run81GrandPrix383 said:
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