That’s the muncie on the floor in that photo. I posted some pictures of it on another site and was told that it’s a mixture of parts thrown together. Some of the screw holes for the plate that the shifters attach to were stripped out too. Back when I bought the 2 transmissions I was mostly after the muncie because I knew that’s what GM used back in the day behind all of the muscle cars and big blocks, but now the majority of people I ask say use the super t10 instead.
New guy 79 factory 4 speed wagon.
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There’s the tilt wheel steering column and the bottom picture is the piece that’s broke that won’t allow it to start with the key. The top picture shows the red trim piece they busted up I assume attempting to Hotwire it? Everyone said good luck finding another one of those in any color for a stick shift car. I remember my dad bought an entire column off of eBay right after this all happened and I think he’s still got it in a box in his basement. I remember it was blue though and I have no clue of it was for a column shift car or not. I’ll have to ask him. I was re reading this thread and in one of my earlier posts I got my words jumbled up. The saginaw in the car and the super t10 both have two RINGS on the input shaft. For some reason I said splines.
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That specific lower shroud was only used on an AMC Spirit or an S-10. Various length shorter versions were used in other applications (pickups, Chevette, 3rd gen F body, Jeep, etc.) and you may not notice the difference since in the Chevrolet, most of the shroud is well under the dash, even at the bottom.
Here is a link to an article I wrote over 20 years ago, about the knowledge I had 10 years earlier. At the left is a link to Steering Column, which may provide you with some information.
I can't quite tell what is hanging out of the side where the shroud was destroyed.
The broken rack you have in your hand is available, but only as a kit. The GM part number for the kit is 7844651. It appears to be the same kit as sold under a Jeep PN 83510055. GM and Jeep both used Saginaw steering columns, so there is a lot of interchangeability of parts.
On the left side of the column, was the pushrod that engages with the ignition switch also bent/damaged? That pushrod will engage with the piece of the rack (in your hand) that is missing.
There will be 2 rods: 1 for the dimmer switch and 1 for the ignition switch.
It has been a while since I had a column apart, but I think the curved rod that is visible is for the dimmer switch.
I am not sure I see the rod that engages with the rack, that connects to the ignition switch (attached to the column next to the dimmer switch).
Here is a link to an article I wrote over 20 years ago, about the knowledge I had 10 years earlier. At the left is a link to Steering Column, which may provide you with some information.
I can't quite tell what is hanging out of the side where the shroud was destroyed.
The broken rack you have in your hand is available, but only as a kit. The GM part number for the kit is 7844651. It appears to be the same kit as sold under a Jeep PN 83510055. GM and Jeep both used Saginaw steering columns, so there is a lot of interchangeability of parts.
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Steering Column Rack Kit 83510055 For 1974-1995 Jeep Comanche Wrangler XJ CJ | eBay
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On the left side of the column, was the pushrod that engages with the ignition switch also bent/damaged? That pushrod will engage with the piece of the rack (in your hand) that is missing.
There will be 2 rods: 1 for the dimmer switch and 1 for the ignition switch.
It has been a while since I had a column apart, but I think the curved rod that is visible is for the dimmer switch.
I am not sure I see the rod that engages with the rack, that connects to the ignition switch (attached to the column next to the dimmer switch).
Dang you know your stuff. It’s all there. My brother popped out an old steering column tool kit and knew what ever little piece was for. Had it apart in 5-6 minutes. The rack kit is ordered. Also, he showed me the original locking mechanism in the tailgates of these cars were made by Briggs and Stratton? Is that true? He said to ask around because he found a NOS one for sale
It is good your brother knows how to deal with the column. If I was close I would gladly help.
I didn't know the tailgate latch was made by Briggs & Stratton. The same latch (at least the handle) was in some other cars as well.
Is the pushrod that fits between the rack and the ignition switch there? undamaged? If not, I have found that all tilt column switch pushrods are not the same length. For the custom columns I made, I used a 3rd Gen F body pushrod, shortened the switch end a bit, and then rebent the end to fit into the switch.
I didn't know the tailgate latch was made by Briggs & Stratton. The same latch (at least the handle) was in some other cars as well.
Is the pushrod that fits between the rack and the ignition switch there? undamaged? If not, I have found that all tilt column switch pushrods are not the same length. For the custom columns I made, I used a 3rd Gen F body pushrod, shortened the switch end a bit, and then rebent the end to fit into the switch.
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I’ll take a look tomorrow evening. Wednesday and Friday I don’t go to the shop after work. I’m at a stand still waiting on wheel studs for the front wheels (to accept the new wheels) and trying to determine if I’m going to replace some fuel lines. I pulled the electric pump off and am putting a mechanical pump on it. The original gas tank had some wet looking spots on it so I bought a new one from rock auto: luckily the original sending unit was in good shape because I’ve read they are almost impossible to find. I spent most of last night putting interior pieces back on and the front bumper fillers. Been finding a lot of empty screw holes for interior pieces which bugs me.
The empty screw holes sounds frustrating. It may have likely been apart by several hands between 1979 and 1998.
Good point. I’d wager to guess most of it was our doing though. My dad bought it off of an old man that drove it daily. He even had a brand new headliner installed a month or so before we bought it. I only know that because I pointed out how nice it looked and my dad told me a few nights ago. I remember taking the entire front end of the car off to the bare frame and painting it before putting it back together. I figure the glove box was off from removing the air conditioner and that’s probably why the screws are missing from the radio delete plate which is right by the knobs for the air. Keep in mind my dad was trying to guide two young kids through this process at the time. One of the bumper fillers was in the back cargo space and the other one was only held on by one plastic push tab. I found a bunch of 7mm screws with fixed washers in his garage and started putting stuff back together as best I could. The very front body bushing bolt on the passenger side didn’t have any washers or nuts on it so when I racked it up the bumper dropped down a good bit. I got that all buttoned up, fillers secured, and glove box back in. I know the gbody bumper fillers are notorious for crumbling but oddly mine all feel great and flimsy, not stiff unless it wasn’t as big of an issue with Malibus compared to regal/cutlass/grand National?? They have however started to turn white or the paint is peeling. Maybe it’s because it’s been parked in his garage for the last 20 years. The kick panel on the drivers side needs put back on but it looks like it just snaps in place and there’s some wiring I want to look at before I do so. Kick panel, the chrome strip that screws to the rocker panel on the drivers side that holds the carpet down, and one or two pieces around the steering column is all I have left to put back on. I think I have enough interior looking screws to do it all but i guarantee none of them will be in their original locations lol.
If you have an Ace Hardware nearby, they have a drawer with the interior screws. I don't recall if they have both chrome and black. I can't say if other hardware stores do.
I’m looked through your t5 installation thread some last night and plan on sending the link to my brother to look through. Is the t5 almost physically the same size/shape/linkages as a super t10 or are they a lot different? The more I read about the shift levers the more confused I get lol. Am I basically right in saying that if the shifter mounted in the same place on the t10 that it does on the saginaw that it would be a straight forward swap other than the driveshaft yolk and the friction plate? For instance, I could buy all the shift levers for say a 74-81 f body (just using as an example because that’s what one guy used) bolt my hurst shifter on, then just buy a 55-57 Chevy shifter that comes up through the floor that would maybe clear the bench and use the original hole in the floor? I hope to get all the little things buttoned up and maybe get the new gas tank, and mechanical pump in tonight so we can really start to focus on the transmission. Of course that all depends on the parts stores delivering everything I ordered.
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