Sorry, I wasn't notified you added these pictures. Yes, that is a 1979-1981 (double D end) manual column for a Malibu, etc...nice find. I had a few and sold them many years ago.
New guy 79 factory 4 speed wagon.
- Thread starter Mighty
- Start date
Super Job on your T10 swap.
In your T10 swap, the shifter is to the left of where the Saginaw shifter was. Is that because the T10 tailhousing is wider at that mounting point?
Since Reverse the rod is not perpendicular to the Reverse lever, how much additional effort was required to engage Reverse?
It's not far off of center. A spacer block between the shifter and the chrome stick put it back on center.
Maybe it's the picture, but the reverse rod is perpendicular to the lever. No issues engaging reverse. It operates as if GM did it. I even got the back up lights to operate.
By perpendicular, I mean the reverse lever is vertical and the rod is not horizontal, so the force required to move the diagonal rod will be greater.
I saw the switch, which was a good idea. I remember reading that the Corvette with a Muncie had an external switch mounted on the transmission.
The T10 didn't have a provision for a reverse switch because starting in 1969, the reverse switch was on the steering column, and an additional rod connected the reverse lever to the steering column. The additional lever also forced the transmission to be in reverse in order to remove the key. That additional rod coincided with headers, which is why you see 2nd gen F bodies (with headers) and 1969 and later A bodies (with headers) always have the reverse lamps on.
This is where I’m at now…. I realized I should’ve bought 3/8 braided fuel line instead of a pre bent metal line. Then my brother noticed that just about all of the body bushings were pretty chewed up so I figured since the trans is already out and the steering column is already out and I have the new fuel line, I’ll add another couple days to the project. I spent all evening after work last Thursday power washing and scrubbing the frame with degreaser. Then hit it as best as I could with a wire wheel. Luckily the frame wasn’t in terrible shape. I was going to buy some rustoleum paint but my brother said to hold off and he’ll pick up something from the industrial sherwin Williams store by his house. Hope he has that tonight so I can get painting. That fuel line came right out of there with the body off!! It wasn’t even in terrible shape. I received the new body bushings last Wednesday but it didn’t come with bolts so I ordered some from mikes Montes.com and received them as well. I’m hoping I can have the frame painted and the body set back on by the weekend.
I always use prebent stainless metal lines for things I plan on keeping. Braided AN lines have a lot of issues; especially with modern fuels. The fuel vapors leach out. The other issues is the rubber inside is typically good for about 5 years + or -.
Same issues even with a Teflon liner.
Same issues even with a Teflon liner.
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Nice, I didn’t know that. I want to get everything back together and start messing with getting the super t10 in the car and see how much work it’s going to be. I got the rebuild kit for it already. Have you guys ever rebuilt one out of curiosity? Just incase we run into any issues. I ordered if from the link posted earlier in this thread
I have rebuilt a lot of Super T10's.....6 in the last year. What would you like to know?
Well nothing yet. I was just curious incase we run into any problems when the time comes and the rebuild starts
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