Pinto rack in g-body
- Thread starter Clint Hester
- Start date
you know ive been wondering this also,i know trz sells a rack that is shorter i beleive than a pinto rack.but it seems for a drag only car,you could use the pinto rack and make some otre's out of heim joints and adjust the bumpsteer out or at least keep it to a minium,i used the search feature on here and saw there is a few cars on here with racks adn some are a homemade design
The ONLY way to do the install properly is with a narrowed rack and the TRZ kit makes the install much easier.
Keep in mind you do lose a noticable amount of turning radius with the rack over stock steering. I can't make turns anymore that I used to make with stock steering...nature of the rack though.
Keep in mind you do lose a noticable amount of turning radius with the rack over stock steering. I can't make turns anymore that I used to make with stock steering...nature of the rack though.
I see some manual steering conversions that claim to save a bunch of weight. How much weight could they save? And would they steer harder or easier than the rack and pinion setup?
Weight saved would be about the weight of the pump plus most of the PS fluid plus the hoses plus any differences in the drive belt arrangement.Barry 85 SS said:
At the same overall ratio and alignment settings, I'd expect a recirculating ball unit to steer a little easier than a R&P. Rolling friction in a properly adjusted RB unit should be considerably less than the sliding friction in a R&P. Seal friction should be close to a wash between the two.
Norm
Weight savings is between 32 and 40 lbs. depending on what was in the car with rack kit. We've even seen up to 52 lbs. savings on Cal Hartline's true GN. We can sell just the narrowed rack itself as well if needed. The problem with the standard length pinto rack is the tie-rod pivots are too wide for the G-bodies. You want the tie-rods to pivot right where the lower control arms pivot basically, which won't happen with a regular pinto rack.
Similar threads
