race alternator

[grizwald]

what's the best alternator to use for a race car? i don't drive my car on the street now, but might in the near future. just looking for something that won't cook at 6K rpm and up. are you guys just using stock replacement alts and hoping for the best?

 

[Robert1320]

I have run a stock alt at 7500 rpm and it got 5000 mile a year and track time every week.

 

[ImportThis]

if the car is not street driven often (no lights, radio, etc.) find a 35-45 amp Denso alternator.. they are a lil more expensive than the factory gm alternators, and you can get them in a 1-wire version.. they only weigh about 6 lbs i believe, and will hold up to rpm's.. i sponsor a couple of cars that are running these on IMCA Stock Cars turning 7000+ and they hold up fine, and also quite a few guys are running them around here on drag cars..

 

[gbodystuff]

I'd take an 18V battery powered impact and swap to a Moroso 5" diameter race pulley, assuming you're running a v-belt. I'd run the highest amperage alt. you need and would not sacrifice it for a cheap one for the street.

 

[Doober]

I'd take an 18V battery powered impact and swap to a Moroso 5" diameter race pulley, assuming you're running a v-belt. I'd run the highest amperage alt. you need and would not sacrifice it for a cheap one for the street.

Sounds good 2 me 8) Having a higher rated alternator doesn't automatically mean more drag... there will be a little from the inertia of internal parts compared to a smaller alternator, but the load doesn't come in until there's actually some current draw.

 

[grizwald]

i'm not sure i need a big HD alternater. right now, i'm just charging between rounds with a battery charger. the last time out, i ran a 12.15 on my first pass...but my alt siezed and tossed the belt. so, i had to run no alt for the rest of the weekend. i used a charger between rounds. my car ran 11.92 and a bunch of passes within .05 of that all weekend with no alt. so, of course, i HATE the thought of puting an alt back on cause i'm thinking it's going to slow it back down a bit. i'm talking myself into using one to avoid having to haul a generator and charger around with me all the time...plus IF i ever want to make it streetable again, this is one thing out of the way.

 

[gbodystuff]

Whats hurting you more is not having 14V at the coil igniting your spark completely. Run an alternator...the battery is meant for storing current not being the sole supplier of it. There are countless other areas I would focus on before worrying about a little alt. drag. I'd worry more about wind resistance over the alt...it's just a non-issue I don't know why it always comes up. Read up over on http://www.madelectrical.com about why not running an alternator is NOT a good idea.

 

[gbodystuff]

And, swap to a serpentine setup and run one belt-you won't throw it. I have a customer who runs a 1000+ hp Mustang and a 66 Chevelle pushing 650 hp with 700+ NOS on top of that-both serpentine kits I put on and neither has thrown a belt-ever.

 

[grizwald]

i don't have an issue with tossing belts, thanks to the alan grove mounting bracket i bought. only reason it came off last time is because the alt siezed. it twisted the belt all up.

 

[gbodystuff]

The main reason pulleys seize is because under stress, mounting brackets flex and cocks the accessories at weird angles, then the bearings give it up and snap-belts lock up and break. With late model cars running full accessories laying down so much power without going with minimal accessories and running non-stock brackets, I don't see any reason at all to not run factory style serpertine brackets-I have guys laying down 1000 HP so I know they hold up to the worst abuse.