Speedway Heim Bushings ! ! ! !

[rock]

Let me start by saying that Im impressed with "Speedway Motors". I was looking around at different rearend bushings and saw everything from stock, poly, heim, etc. Being on a budget, price was always a factor. I never changed my rearend bushings but told myself that if I ever did, I would try the Speedway bushings (considering the price and quality). I saved the web page as one of my favorites and decided to revisit. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/REAR-CONTROL-ARM-BUSHING,9021.html
I found that the bushing (part # 916-34048) were on sale for $24.99 each. Thats $50.00 for replacement Heim style bushings ! ! ! I ordered a total of 4 just so I could have them in the "Goodie Booth". I placed the order on Monday morning and they came UPS on Tuesday. I took a few pictures and measurements for comparison purposes. Let me know if you have any questions.
The first picture is a side by side comprison of the Speedway bushing and a stock bushing (same diameter including taper).

Stock bushing measures 2.458

Speedway bushing measures 2.330

The speedway bushing has a heim joint encased inside the sleeve which is held in place by snap rings. There are two sleeve inserts that are perfectly machined that make up the eyelet. Once assembled the two sleeves support the rearend bolt instead of having the heim joint support the weight (genius). There are two foam dust caps which are nothing more than a piece of pipe insulation. Easily replaceable, serviceable, and functional.

The bushing is a pressed fit like the stock original bushing. You can remove the two sleeves and dust covers and hammer in the bushing without doing any harm to the heim joint or sleeves. The only thing I would suggest is that you use some washers to compensate for the distance between the sleeve and the inner control arm. The sleeves are not held in by anything else but side clearance. I am very pleased with the quality of the product and service. Hope this helps with any questions.

 

[Anonymous]

I'll start by saying the Speedway and Midwest Motorsports made lots of money off me in my circle track days.

However, I have a question about the bushings. I wouldn't think you would really want to use that type of setup unless you really had a good rear setup with a panhard bar or some other setup to prevent any movement of the rear.

I mean, think about it. Poly bushing are such to stiffen the suspension and try to help prevent unecessary movement. Hiem Joints are the opposite, to allow for better movement. To me, those would seem to be too free moving.

Maybe I'm wrong. What do others think?

 

[Doober]

Sweet I've seen them, just hadn't really considered ordering them yet.

Far as movement, I think I'd personally want it to move more freely, and run a stiffer set of shocks.

 

[James Bond]

thanks for the info. does that bearing require lubrication?

 

[rock]

thanks for the info. does that bearing require lubrication?

As much as any other heim joint. I was going to pack it with some grease and forget about it. Its for a track only car so there would be not issue with water, snow, salt, etc. Since the dust covers (foam pipe isulation) are easily removeable and replaceable, you could spray it down from time to time with some WD40 if you didnt want to pack it with grease.

 

[rock]

Far as movement, I think I'd personally want it to move more freely, and run a stiffer set of shocks.

Exactly ! ! ! There wouldnt be any movement in the wrong direction. Only movement in the suspension "ARCH". (if that makes sense). Its for a race only application, so this will help with less bind, and more free flowing "SWING ! ! !". Just what I'm using them for. The rearend would be more stable (side to side) and have more suspension transfer causing the tires to plant better.

 

[Anonymous]

Sweet I've seen them, just hadn't really considered ordering them yet.

Far as movement, I think I'd personally want it to move more freely, and run a stiffer set of shocks.

I should have been clearer, I am not speaking of the up and down travel of the suspension, I am talking about the side to side movement that it seems these would allow to be more free.

 

[Anonymous]

Look at your 4th pic from the top. The bolt hole through the hiem is facing down. You won't find that in a poly or even rubber mount. The mounts shouldn't be allowed to move like that unless you are running a panhard or some other system to prevent rear movement from side to side (which is what is used on circle track cars).

I believe, if you jack your car up and support the frame with jackstands and put a jack under the center of the rear, you'll find your rear moves side to side a lot more freely than poly or rubber bushings would allow, but I could be wrong. That is, unless you have a panhard or something else to prevent side-to-side movement.

 

[rock]

Look at your 4th pic from the top. The bolt hole through the hiem is facing down. You won't find that in a poly or even rubber mount. The mounts shouldn't be allowed to move like that unless you are running a panhard or some other system to prevent rear movement from side to side (which is what is used on circle track cars).

I believe, if you jack your car up and support the frame with jackstands and put a jack under the center of the rear, you'll find your rear moves side to side a lot more freely than poly or rubber bushings would allow, but I could be wrong. That is, unless you have a panhard or something else to prevent side-to-side movement.

I took picture 4 and 5 with the joint facing in that direction so I could show the free range of motion in the heim joint. This bushings purpose in my application is for straight line drag racing. No corner carving involved. It would not allow any more side to side movement than what would be allowed in the bolts or other suspension components. There is no way for the sleeves to slide in and out of the bushings (HEIM) once installed properly. Therefor the rearend housing does not "slide" on the bushing causing side to side motion. This bushing would allow virtually no side to side flex at the upper control arm position due to its design. Some people use upper and lower control arms with Heim joints but the joint is not stationary on the sleeve or they do not have sleeves on the heim joint. A lot of these are homemade adjustable control arms like these.

This causes side to side motion of the rearend and massive Cork Screwing. They then think they need an anti roll bar to compensate for the control arms and rearend sliding along the heim joint sleeve. On jack stands the rearend would seem tight and stable, but you can not reproduce lb/tq equivalant to what the chassis will experience in a normal situation.

 

[Anonymous]

So, if I used those bushings in place of stock, poly, or steel bushings on one lower arm (hypothetically speaking here), and that one lower arm was bolted to the frame but not to the rear end yet, with the Speedway bushings, you're saying the arm would move less side to side, than with the others?

That's what I am wondering about, I know you understand what I'm asking, just find it hard to believe.

I guess the hiem has me confused, but I agree with your statement on using hiem rod ends, seen it over and over in circle track to introduce initial rear steer, but then the car goes all to hell because they can't control the roll induced steer without a panhard bar.