How much horse will a stock driveshaft handle? Will be hooking up transbrake this year and was thinking maybe should upgrade shaft instead of waiting til it breaks. Anyone running stock shaft w/brake? Thanks.
Stock driveshaft
- Thread starter lastchevelle
- Start date
i would spend the money and have one built, i would think it could't be more than 3 or 4 hundred bucks
I was looking at driveshafts the other day when I changed the transmission in my Malibu from a 200 Metric to a 350TH. Anyway, I noticed that a TrailBlazer driveshaft is only like 3/8" shorter than the OEM one. Its aluminum. Runs about $50 or so at the junkyards. Same yoke as 350TH. I picked one up. Have not put it in yet.
Might be as strong, if not have less weight/inertia working against it.
Anybody else do this yet? Something tells me the U-joints would fail before the tube/shaft itself.
Might be as strong, if not have less weight/inertia working against it.
Anybody else do this yet? Something tells me the U-joints would fail before the tube/shaft itself.
I wouldn't go past 400 to the tires. Not to high jack this but what year trailblazer and what is the dia. 3/3.5/4 inch. Let us know the details that sounds like a good swap for us low HP guys 
A new driveshaft built to take the HP & abuse is probably a lot cheaper than replacing/repairing the transmission, rearend, floorboards, exhaust AND a new driveshaft after the old one fails. A friend had one fail in his 'bu and in addition to all of the above being damaged, there was a toolbox sitting on the rear pass side floor & when the driveshaft broke and hit the floor it launched the toolbox through the pass side quarter window, the tinted window flopped down and flopped/rubbed against the side of the car before he got it stopped. That scratched the quarter panel badly 2 months after he had the car painted so he had to repaint the quarter as well as replace the window. I think the total bill when it was up & running again was just shy of $3000. Plus the car was parked for 2 1/2 months while he fixed it. Like most of us, money for the toy car comes after all of the other bills. A new driveshaft is pretty cheap insurance in the long run IMO.
Yeah I figured the general concensus would be to just get a new shaft. I'm looking at the Moser driveshafts. I've had no problems with my Moser rearend. Looks like they go for under $500. Thanks for the replies. Matt
Im wondering if anyone has any input on factory d-shafts you may find at the autowrecker, This year my car hooked unbelievable and i was just clenching at the light that it would drop and kiss the floorpans :x
I have a, Heavy Duty Denny's in mine, $350ish plus ship, He also
has a "you break it or twist it, he replaces it for free" guarantee.
Check it out!!!
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/
has a "you break it or twist it, he replaces it for free" guarantee.
Check it out!!!
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/
this month's car craft says a stock driveshaft is only rated to 350lb/ft or 350 to 400 hp.
We've probably all put more than that amount of power through a stocker. After reading the above post about the $3k driveshaft failure I am upgrading mine once the 305 is out.
I used a stock driveshaft in my IROC and was putting down WAY over 500lb/ft with a 406 TPI. The 7.5 ring gear broke before the driveshaft. My guess is the driveshaft would have probably went south if the ring gear hadn't.
We've probably all put more than that amount of power through a stocker. After reading the above post about the $3k driveshaft failure I am upgrading mine once the 305 is out.
I used a stock driveshaft in my IROC and was putting down WAY over 500lb/ft with a 406 TPI. The 7.5 ring gear broke before the driveshaft. My guess is the driveshaft would have probably went south if the ring gear hadn't.
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