t56 swap questions...

[SEVNT 9]

does the distance between the back end of the crank and back of the block need to be measured or should it be the same as an lt1 on my one peice rear main seal block? is there a dimension i need to be within or a measurement i should take before bolting up a T56/flywheel/pressure plate (or will i have to shim the flywheel or transmission bell housing away from the block?) or is it a pretty much straight forward install, im a vw tech so i have done clutches before so i know whats involved but then again its never been "other than factory install".

does any body have the pictures and instructions for installing the john bzdel clutch pedal i have seem to misplace mine #-o
i know it involved triming something by the base of the steering colum or something like that. its been 4 years since i purchased the pedal.

anybody know how much further back a T56 sits say vs a 700-r4 i know i will have to shorten my driveshaft, but im thinking of just replacing it becuase i already get bad vibrations at 70 mph+ with the 4.10's that thing is spinning way faster than intended by the factory (i had 2.29's in it).

thanks in advance - Shawn

 

[LS6 Tommy]

IIRC the pedal may hit the edge of the pedal basket. If you push the pedal down (with it disconnected from the pushrod) you'll see where the contact is.

Tommy

 

[6spdmalibu]

If you have a 1pc rear main block, the t56 from an LT-1 and fly wheel will bolt right up. Personally the stock clutch linkage worked great on my setup. But make sure when setting up that you have the camaro pedals to check for throw/stroke. Makes a huge difference when pushing on the clutch in traffic. If I remember correctly the rod only travels 1 1/8", and make sure there is a clutch stop as well.

As for the vibration. Did you check for proper drive line angles that cancel each other out?
Very important that they do.

 

[SEVNT 9]

thanks for the info 6spdmalibu i never looked into the driveline angles so ill have to do that I do have double upper adjustable control arms and jegs lower boxed lift/contol arms to install yet so when i do that ill deffinitly look into the angles. i have a clutch pedal from John bzdel what are you using for a clutch pedal??? and what kind of clutch/pressure plate/flywheel set up are you using? or would you recommend I am not making a ton of power so i dont know if i should just go with a stock set up or something with a lil more bite i know i sacrifice pedal stiffness with a stronger set up thanks again - Shawn

p.s. do you have any pics?

 

[6spdmalibu]

I'll take a few pics on the weekend and post them up.

 

[Doober]

Do you already have a trans? If not it may be easier to find an LS1 T56 from a GTO or F-body. You should be able to get an adapter plate, run a flywheel/clutch from an F-Body with a T-5 & 1-piece rms block, and bolt everything up to stock G-Body bellhousing/linkage.

 

[SEVNT 9]

ok cool looking forward to the pics!!

hey doober that honestly sounds like more work dont you think? vs just bolting up a t56 from an lt1 and all the stuff from an lt1? i guess im looking for the best bang for the buck, im hoping not to spend more than 1500.00 from here on out, i dont have the trans yet, im hoping to score one at a swap meet some time, prob go up to the huge one in Jefferson wisconsin and look to score a complete swap set up trans, clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, hydraulics.

 

[Doober]

Doesn't seem like it to me, I already have everything for mechanical linkage though. If you still have to buy all the parts, unless you find a really good (~$600-700) on a transmission I doubt you'll be under $1,500.
-Master/slave cylinders (~$120+ for both new)
-Pedal for master cylinder ($100+)
-Flywheel (probably machine if used), ~$60 new +$100 core
-Clutch (I'd never buy used... ~$160)
-Transmission crossmember ($260 at Crossmembers.com)
-Driveshaft shortening/balancing
-Shifter (if it doesn't have one)
-Bellhousing if they don't include it with the trans
-Shifter boot, etc. for interior

 

[SEVNT 9]

ah i see where you are coming from, i already have the t56 crossmember and clutch pedal from john bzdel which he used on his set up to go hydraulic, and yeah i will deffinitly buy a new clutch kit.

id figure

trans, hydraulics, flywheel, shifter, i could score for about at a swap meet 600.00 800.00

new clutch 300 (dont know what brand i want to use or stage)

driveshaft 200.00

gives me 200.00 for misc. stuff bolts, boots, etc.

ill prob end up spending more than i want but hopefully i can be within budget

i also want to install electric exhaust dumps, and get a set of front runners but we'll see what happens thanks again for the input! - Shawn

 

[Doober]

From the post I'd made in your clutch thread, I had another thought (it's crossed my mind before for my own car). If you ran a hydraulic throwout bearing (I believe they cost a little more, but I think that would be offset by running a factory LT-1 clutch setup), you don't even use a clutch fork, so you could use any bellhousing that would fit your application. My thought here is going with an SFI-spec bellhousing, because a factory aluminum bellhousing will provide little-to-no protection if there's an explosion (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hJtJUVyEyYY). I did some looking and an LT1-specific SFI bellhousing is a bit more (~$100) than running one that will fit an older trans.