This may be silly of me but I've run into a slight cooling issue with my ol car. Its got a vortec block(newer than 96 I think) and heads. I recently installed a heater block off plate, msd box, msd external coil, and distributor. After doing this I've run into a overheating issue I would normally run 180 +-10 degrees and now it gets up to 180 and slowly climbs up and stops around 210. I usually see 10-15 mins of highway then a good deal of stop and go. I've got the timing set to 12 degrees btdc with the heavy springs and 21 degree advance no vacuum advance. I know the vortec heads and blocks require a coolant bypass so I made one where the heater core use to hook up and it helped a little but I still see high temps. I'm a little at a loss as to what else to do so any help would be appreciated.
Vortec cooling
- Thread starter ravenmetals
- Start date
210º isn't really anything to worry about, typical operating temps. I don't have anything on mine and it's the same way.
Silly question, but did you use the water pump that matches your accessory system? Old v-belt systems require a standard rotation pump, serpentine systems require a reverse-rotation pump. A bypass only helps equalize temps when the stat is closed. Once it's open there is really no need (normal flow through the rad is more than sufficient).
Beyond that I would question the ignition curve. Without vacuum advance you usually want to bring in the centrifugal advance fairly quickly. "Heavy" springs are not usually the way to go, but it really depends on the curve they produce. Certainly there is absolutely no problem bringing in the advance curve fully by about 2600-2800 for most applications if you're not running vacuum advance.
Then you're down to the usual suspects- adequate airflow (fan system at low speeds), adequate coolant flow, stat that is opening fully, radiator that is adequate for the application, reasonably close A/F ratio, etc.
Beyond that I would question the ignition curve. Without vacuum advance you usually want to bring in the centrifugal advance fairly quickly. "Heavy" springs are not usually the way to go, but it really depends on the curve they produce. Certainly there is absolutely no problem bringing in the advance curve fully by about 2600-2800 for most applications if you're not running vacuum advance.
Then you're down to the usual suspects- adequate airflow (fan system at low speeds), adequate coolant flow, stat that is opening fully, radiator that is adequate for the application, reasonably close A/F ratio, etc.
Yes I got a water pump when I got the serp off a c1500 was put on the truck 10 mins before he wrecked it so I'm fairly sure its good and the right one, also I should add the problems didn't start till a month ago when I put the msd in the car.
Update:
After playing with the springs I found one was smashed looking and the weight was pushed the wrong way compared to the other (like they both where pushed to the same side of the distributor). So I put the lightest spring and a medium spring in then re-adjusted the timing and bam car runs smooth and at 180-190. I can only guess that the weight was swing in with rpm and causing me to have too much timing plus the 100+ weather around here made the temp rise. I realize 210 isn't high it's just higher than what is normal for this car so it was a concern to my extra worrisome self (thats a word right LOL)
And thanks for the ideas and help it would have taken me a while to adjust into the softer springs.
Update:
After playing with the springs I found one was smashed looking and the weight was pushed the wrong way compared to the other (like they both where pushed to the same side of the distributor). So I put the lightest spring and a medium spring in then re-adjusted the timing and bam car runs smooth and at 180-190. I can only guess that the weight was swing in with rpm and causing me to have too much timing plus the 100+ weather around here made the temp rise. I realize 210 isn't high it's just higher than what is normal for this car so it was a concern to my extra worrisome self (thats a word right LOL)
And thanks for the ideas and help it would have taken me a while to adjust into the softer springs.
Also, if you have the temp. sensor in the head you'll see a faster change in readings, since the sensor is right between two exhaust ports that are in direct contact with coolant. I saw a noticeable change in temperature readings depending on how much timing my engine had as well. I wasn't quite sure why, but once I got timing where I liked it, temps stayed pretty regular, normal driving around 180-190º and never really rises past 210º
