If you run too much power through your plates then you will boil the water. So you have to make everything larger to produce the amount needed. Also is your alternator able to keep up with the amount of amps needed to create enough HHO to produce that much power? If your alternator is robbing 5 hp to produce 4 hp then your moving backwards.
water for power?
- Thread starter gbodystuff
- Start date
Electrolysis of water to produce HHO does not require hardly any actual amperage, it's a matter of voltage....12V being the start but then you can use step-up transformers to produce high voltage amounts to release more gas. You are not heating the water-you are separating its basic gasses, hydrogen and oxygen. Hydrogen is FAR more combustible than gasoline so small amounts go a long way and that enables you to reduce the supply of gasoline required to do the same amount of work. I am not an expert on this but I can tell you through voltage amplification, you can achieve what amounts to a 300-400% efficient engine vs. the roughly 20% efficiency todays engines currently exhibit. Remember all the talk a few years back about auto manufactures going to a 42V system? Funny how that was dropped and nobody is asking why, huh? Ford for some unknown reason has just dropped their research on water fuel systems (think of 80 mpg V8 Mustangs...wow!) that they privately held at a high regard...that stinks too.
The keys to using water as power is to first break up the fuel in your tank chemically, then you need heat the fuel below its vaporization rate of 212 degrees so 200-205 is where I would start. Then, using a well designed water fuel cell, capture the two gasses and have them enter the combustion chamber with the fuel-here's where fuel injection engine are easier to modify: since the hyrogen gas by itself is 6x more combustible than petrol, you can now lean the fuel out gradually. This is where a little hydrogen gas goes a long way. This is the most basic principles of water fuel but then you have to take into account what the engine's computer is trying to do. It wants to see a 14:1 stoichmetric air/fuel ratio so it will do whatever it has to do in order to keep what it sees as safe. This is where the O2 sensor if left unmodified will be a huge detriment to the water fuel system. Remember that we want to create combustion here-the computer nor the engine to a certain extent cares what type of fuel is used, only that it does so without huge cylinder pressures and detonation. Well, hydrogen has a very wide range of flammability so even @ high compression ratios of say 13:1, 14:1 the engine will not detonate. So how does the O2 sensor "read" the exhaust gasses? It does so through resistance values. And the O2 sensor(s) work in concert with the coolant temp sensor and the air charge temp sensor to determine not only timing but also fuel pressure and volume. So the trick here is to make the factory computer "see" what it wants to see while at the same time taking advantage of a water fuel system. You do this by hard wiring resistors into the computer inputs for that given sensor circuit. So now the computer will be happy, it will not make unwelcome changes as you lean out the fuel nor will it trip your OBDII check engine light. Now you can go further with resitance to the fuel injectors to reduce fuel requirements, etc. Even your vehicle warranty can't be voided because according to the Moss-Magnuson Act of 1996 any aftermarket device will not void your manufactures warranty unless it created damage or otherwise increased the inefficiency of the engine/drivetrain. Well, an increase of over 300% in fuel economy of being 99.9% emission-free certainly would not constitute an "inefficeincy" in anybodies eyes I wouldn't think. There is so much more to this that what I just mentioned buy hopefully you get the idea. And for the record, all water fuel kits are junk if they do not take into account any way of modifying a factory computer. The factory computer will revert to a preset fuel curve once the engine is either too out of tune (so you have time to correct the issue) or if you are achieving too much efficiency to the point where the A/F ratio appears too lean (water fuel cars can run safely at 40:1 A/F btw) as the computer sees it, that too will flag the default fuel map and throw up a check engine light. Weird how big government has gone through great strides to only guarantee a certain mpg through electronic engine management, huh? Imo 100 mpg designs have been on the drawing board and been proven for the last 50 years but big oil would have a lot to lose if water technology was turned loose for the public.
The keys to using water as power is to first break up the fuel in your tank chemically, then you need heat the fuel below its vaporization rate of 212 degrees so 200-205 is where I would start. Then, using a well designed water fuel cell, capture the two gasses and have them enter the combustion chamber with the fuel-here's where fuel injection engine are easier to modify: since the hyrogen gas by itself is 6x more combustible than petrol, you can now lean the fuel out gradually. This is where a little hydrogen gas goes a long way. This is the most basic principles of water fuel but then you have to take into account what the engine's computer is trying to do. It wants to see a 14:1 stoichmetric air/fuel ratio so it will do whatever it has to do in order to keep what it sees as safe. This is where the O2 sensor if left unmodified will be a huge detriment to the water fuel system. Remember that we want to create combustion here-the computer nor the engine to a certain extent cares what type of fuel is used, only that it does so without huge cylinder pressures and detonation. Well, hydrogen has a very wide range of flammability so even @ high compression ratios of say 13:1, 14:1 the engine will not detonate. So how does the O2 sensor "read" the exhaust gasses? It does so through resistance values. And the O2 sensor(s) work in concert with the coolant temp sensor and the air charge temp sensor to determine not only timing but also fuel pressure and volume. So the trick here is to make the factory computer "see" what it wants to see while at the same time taking advantage of a water fuel system. You do this by hard wiring resistors into the computer inputs for that given sensor circuit. So now the computer will be happy, it will not make unwelcome changes as you lean out the fuel nor will it trip your OBDII check engine light. Now you can go further with resitance to the fuel injectors to reduce fuel requirements, etc. Even your vehicle warranty can't be voided because according to the Moss-Magnuson Act of 1996 any aftermarket device will not void your manufactures warranty unless it created damage or otherwise increased the inefficiency of the engine/drivetrain. Well, an increase of over 300% in fuel economy of being 99.9% emission-free certainly would not constitute an "inefficeincy" in anybodies eyes I wouldn't think. There is so much more to this that what I just mentioned buy hopefully you get the idea. And for the record, all water fuel kits are junk if they do not take into account any way of modifying a factory computer. The factory computer will revert to a preset fuel curve once the engine is either too out of tune (so you have time to correct the issue) or if you are achieving too much efficiency to the point where the A/F ratio appears too lean (water fuel cars can run safely at 40:1 A/F btw) as the computer sees it, that too will flag the default fuel map and throw up a check engine light. Weird how big government has gone through great strides to only guarantee a certain mpg through electronic engine management, huh? Imo 100 mpg designs have been on the drawing board and been proven for the last 50 years but big oil would have a lot to lose if water technology was turned loose for the public.
I dont have any experience but, I plan on installing the Snow Stage 1 kit in the next week or 2 and see what happens, I'll post what difference it makes in ET and MPH in the 1/8th. Ive been trying to get some input from other guys running these kits but not many people seem to chime in on them. Im running twin turbos and a blow thru. My inlet temps get pretty hot so the meth injection by theory should really help although Im running less than 9 lbs of boost ATM. I'll stick to buying one of the Snow kits, but it does look like you have a good handle on making a home made system yourself for much cheaper than the Snow kits sell for. I just got the car running good but I want to reduce detonation risk because of inlet temps, and add some timing and boost by using the meth injection kit. My A/F is good but Im worried about sucking in the heat. I have a few issues with heat, turbos are sucking under hood air, and my wastegate blow down tubes are dumping right on my inlet pipe, and we all know how hot exhaust temps get. Im re routing the WG blow down tubes, and Im removing inner headlights and making fresh air tubes to the turbos. Im also going to be wrapping everything up front, Ive noticed a huge difference after wrapping the exhaust downpipe under the hood. Not sure if doing any of this is going to help but I guess I will find out. This is all trial and error, much different than nitrous thats for sure :shock:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xVGjCFKOu3w
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xVGjCFKOu3w
Well, that's the nice thing about using a water vapor mist...it keeps the entire intake track clean and the water absorbs heat in the combustion chamber thereby reducing the risk of detonation. It's literally crazy to think that based on the chemistry formulas, you can build a high compression engine without worrying about running 13:1 on pump gas using this technology....i've got a long rod 352 SB that I am plumbing for a MassFlo system and I should get about 500 hp @ 11:1 and with a 25:1 A/F ratio. If this works out as planned, I will push it with a 6-7 psi ProCharger and get it somewhere in the 800 hp range @ 14:1, on pump gas and with 60-70 mpg. It sounds crazy but I think I can get it done...we'll see.
My dad was not wrong he has been talking about this for the last 20 years. I wonder were he was getting his info from. He does have alot of marine friends.
I am not saying it wont work. I want to see someone put a home built hydrogen setup on their vehicle on post their real life results and how they built it.
Similar threads
