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Did find a pic...http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20258&d=1104167563 Also seems that you need to drill one hole in your crossmember to install.

ATS link doesn't work, links to front page, but I've seen 'em before. Look like the S&P, etc etc etc plates. Carshop has 'em cheapest, I believe. No need to pay for mounts that I'm not going to use anyway, I want to use the OE pads/shells...

It was my impression that pushing the engine back aggravated the A/C box problem. Not really sure why John's mounts are triple what everybody else sells for, and there's no pic of them other than the "prototype" set, which didn't impress me.

OK, read everything, and everyone says "you have to usse *** brand plates and yyy brand headers" Problem is, they're all different! Does anyone have an LS in a car that has retained the A/C box? I also see a lot of references to moving the motor around "til everything fits"...how exactly? The...

Found this... Crankshaft Replacement Caution For 1998-2005 GM 4.3, 4.8, 5.3, 5.7 & 6.0L Engines The AERA Technical Committee offers the following information on crankshaft replacement caution for 1998-2003 GM 4.3, 4.8, 5.3, 5.7 and 6.0L engines...

For those who prefer to fab their own parts, I found this drawing of the S&P type mount adapter plates. Note that the hole labelled as needing to be countersunk should actually be the one to it's left. http://matt.undiagnosed.org/ls1/images/engine/ls1_motor_mount_plate.jpg My question...

Hey now...I haven't seen this thing yet, been out for a couple of years, so don't get that leg warmed up just yet :lol: Thanks for the info!

A few questions... Figure a 2" cowl would clear the intake w/o cutting anything? I assume you used the OE harness and can you tell us did you eliminate anything like rear O2 sensors, etc? #8 clear the A/C box OK? Town car xmem...92+ I assume? Have you gotten a "seat-o-the pants meter"...

Good tidbit here on why you don't see ammeters much. http://www.egauges.com/ATM_Tips.asp?TipPage=voltmeterammeter.htm

Good luck getting them....I was trying for a long time, they seem to be on perputal backorder (17x8 with 0 offset). I have seen the chrome ones in person, and I believe I'd go with the polished. I was not impressed with the finish.l

Sounds to me like the rod is slightly too long, allowing minimal pressure to be applied. I have also had sticky calipers that would do that due to car sitting for an extended period of time. The seals wouldn't pull the piston back in, presumably from a small rust ring in the bore due to...

I have 15x8 vette alloys on mine with a 255/60. Those are 4" backspace. There's about an inch and an eighth to the frame. Using the same tire, the additonal half inch of backspace would put you at about 1/2-5/8 to spare, depending on how centered the rear is in the car. I have run 275s on the...

All the GM factory ralleys I've ever had in 15x7 were the same 4" backspace as the 8". 255s will have plenty of clearance, 275s should be fine, although some folks don't care to put them on a 7" wheel.

Ran that same rear combo years ago on my '79. Backside fit fine, no notching required.

Yep, on 15x8 '80 Vette alloys, 4" backspace. Clear everything fine. Don't like the way they look (short) compared to the 225/70s I had, but the 225s and the 255/60s barely caught the bottom of the fenders. I also ran 235/60 on 15x7 rallies about a million years ago on my '79 Malibu, with no...

Re: clock You know you have to pull the knob out to set, right? Have the factory tach/quartz clock (84-5 Monte SS)in mine...works great, keeps perfect time

Quick note: PS hoses went to the o-ring fitting in '80 Good info!

So I', looking at some 17x8, 4.5 b/s wheels, probably with 245/45s. Half of the posts say they fit, half say they rub like a sumb.... Anybody that can say one way or the other if they fit without frame contact on the rear? My definition of "fit" means no rolling of quarter pinchwelds, use of...