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Catch 22 The finer the paper, the longer to sand, easier to buff The coarser the paper, the easier to sand, longer to buff We generally use 1200 or 1500 on BC/CC It's not a single stage metallic, is it? You really don't want to cut that very much.

Note that the wrong hole is marked to countersink, should be the one to it's left. Have seen suggestions to just drill and tap it for a short stud, then they are not side-specific.

1) Lube the rubber with silicone paste 2) Remove door trim panel, and adjust glass guide to give just a hair more room to the rubber. Not a lot, just a hair.

Re: painting plastics.... Didn't put any on the one I did for my buddy for a Christmas present, no problems aside from 10 year old keeps running into stuff :roll: Spoiled rotten twins [-X

What kind of primer?

Fibreglass really won't adhere to the urethane, and you do NOT want to start cutting on it. The urethane is pretty dimensionally stable, it will pull the end in before it stretches. Might try an "L" angle piece...should be light and rigid. Lots of clamps and a nice flat place to clamp it like a...

Might try bonding a length of light aluminum bar stock into it. I've had good results with Duramix 4040...now owned by 3M. Fixed a Ford chin spoiler that way some years back, was still doing fine when I sold the car 11 years later.

I see people on here messing with far worse.... In my opinion, if the rust isn't horrible, the most important thing is interior plastics, if you're going to leav an interior in it. Wagon plastics are especially hard to find these days, and unlikely to ever be repro'd. Remember, if it needs...

Sails are cut short on landau. There's a gap there if used on regular coupe. Sorry

I usually melt it out with a torch, weld the seam, then fill with duraglass. You're "not supposed" to grind/sand lead due to it going airborne. It's been my experience that the leaded seams are seldom close to being what they should be as far as making a nice seam, and about half of them...

Too bad you're so far away, have an '88 LS frt clip I'd sell.

DuPont Chromabase

PB5...88-92 Fiji Blue Toner / Non cumulative pour / cumulative pour 827J Blue / 116.1 / 116.1 829J LtBlue / 59.3 / 175.4 811J Med Alum / 15.1 / 190.5 820J Violet...

How much you making? I'll see if I can pull it up today at work. Chromabase, I assume.

What paint are you using? You'll need anywhere from 3 to 9 or more toners, and they're not cheap. Then, you'll need a scale that can measure to .1/gram. Your paint supplier should be able to give you the formula, if you're using automotive paint from a full-line supplier.

"Capt. Lee's spra-strip" Any good 2K primer should work fine, i like U-Pol myself

Use 2 strips each side for taillamps, and 2 more for brake. Something late model I was behind had them set up that way.

We mainly use it for corrosion protection. Like if a roof is a peeler that requires no fill work.

Either/or I've used both products. If you haven't bought the Variprime (which is a good product), I'd just buy the epoxy and be done with it. Not sure about epoxy pricing anymore, but Variprime has gotten ridiculously expensive of late.

None of those panels are bonded from the assembly plant. Are you saying that they allegedly replaced some of them? FWIW, the rear panels are always wavy on those trucks. Looks to me like they didn't drive the center portion of the corner panel back, just pulled the dent. Block of wood and a 3...