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Actually, sort of. Not a direct fit, but if you have the ability to move body mount brackets, it's the right dimensions. Rear body mounts are in different spots.

How'd you strip it? Heat will kill them...seen many ahood ruined just from aggressive buffing/polishing. The glue spots stick the panels together, which doesn't allow the outer panel to expand and contract when heated. That will make low spots everywhere there's a bond.

Spotwelded...drill and weld

2 door and 4 door frames are the same, wagons have different body mount locations in the rear. Caminos are longer. Malibu/Lemans/ Grand Am/ Grand Lemans will work. 82/86 Small Bonneville may work, have to dig out a crash book for that one. Monte/Cutlass/Regal are longer on the front horns...

If you remove the sedan window frame and swap it with a wagon frame, yes. They're the same from the beltline down.

Fronts only without modification

Yes, even if you were going to replace the panel, you would want to get it close...as it will help remove the secondary damage (rear panel, etc). Pull as much out as you can, then make a decision on repair vs. replace. If you go slow and easy, even this is fixable....it was mashed pretty badly...

IF I was going to repair it (and given the rot, I'd replace it if it was mine), I would start with tacking some pull tabs to the rear edge and try pulling it back slowly while hammer/dollying it to rough it in. Come-along and a stout post will work if you don't have a way to tie the car down for...

Always, and they're not that hard to find

The stripless bumpers were OE, too. Probably gonna be tough in your neck of the woods to get a rechrome, but that's where I'd start. There's ebay, but have heard some negativity about a couple of the sellers of bumpers on there.

Re: Is 92" trailer width enough? (w/ racing mirrors) Mine's 74.5" outside mirror to outside mirror (factory sport type)

Nope, it'd have to come off for real paint.

Originally used seam sealer, the brush-on type. I'd use urethane sealer...stays flexible and will seal out water intrusion.

IMO, if this is a keeper, you'll want to strip the car. I don't trust 30 year old lacquer or lacquer primer under any good (expensive) refinish materials. The previous advice on dents/dings is spot-on. For SMALL areas rattle can etching primer will suffice to hold you until you're ready to...

Actually, I prefer to paint the stripe on along with the two colors and bury it under the clear. Doesn't really take all that much more time or work, and looks like it was part of the original concept, rather than an afterthought.

IMO, tape to seperate the two colors is a halfass job. I understand production constraints, but there's no excuse for tape on a refinish/hobby car.

Header will fit, but the original grille and headlamp bezels, park lamps, and side markers will not. And, there's no ornament recess in the '79 header. If you get one with everything, it'll work.

New ride to follow....

They're pretty thin/light. Should be able to pull with a stud welder and skim it.

No NO NO Buy a decent block (or two). Hand sanding will make all kinds of waves and dips. Personally, I like durablocks