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Liberty Fiberglass...Never heard of 'em. from their site Liberty Fiberglass, LLC has over 20 years experience in the manufacturing of fiberglass hoods and 30 years experience in the manufacturing industry. We are conveniently located in Cincinnati, Ohio - minutes from Interstates 71, 75, 74...

If they prepped it right ( probably not, I'm guessing), you won't get them off without destroying them. Can you be more specific on what panels?

Below the line is pretty simple...very mild curvature, and a sharp bend where it kicks in to the trunk closeout panel. flat sheet should be very doable, unless the edges are gone...then patch panels usually aren't enough anyway.

And it'll be closer than shotgunning random tint colors to something else. See, in my business, we have to have repeatable performance. If you just "add some blue pearl to the clearcoat", you'll never get a match if needed later. By scanning the color, you at least have a known starting point...

From what I remember, Caminos are made differently ahead of the wheel (& longer), and the rear is obviously not correct. Behind the wheel is totally different shape between Camino and Malibu. Both areas should be doable with a little skill and flat sheetmetal. Those particular panels I have not...

Better to take the car to your paint supplier and have them scan the color that's on it. Random addition of tinting colors seldom yields acceptable results.

Well, despite the backwards logic, the wagon will be getting the LS1 and trans first. I figure it should be way plenty for it's intended use. Can always mod it later if it isn't "enough". After it's up and running, the 2 door will get a transplant...probably depends on what's available then...

Looks like the LS series harnesses are from $500-700 a whack. A good value for many, I'm sure, but that money could go a long ways for a lot of other things (like buying that 5.3/4L60E pullout I have located).

So, my question is, where is the back of the block in relation to the OE location? Do I understand correctly that the block/bell junction is approx 1" closer to the firewall than the original setup? And, part 2...Does the CTS pan require that much setback to clear the suspension crossmember...

What year is that frame? Supposedly, the 82 and up engine crossmembers are different, and that's the first really good pic I've seen

I think you answered your own question.....

The lower panel should have a slit cut at the back of the slot where the belt comes through to slide the belt fabric through. The buckle portion won't come off the belt without unstitching it. The lower bolt is under the carpet, down the inner rocker a couple of inches.

I believe the jegs/summit are cast , rather than the forged Welds.

I'm sure I'll get :x for this, but there's NO WAY I'd cut the engine/suspension crossmember out on a street driven car. They fold up easily enough as it is if there's any kind of a side hit. Nobody plans on having their car in a crash, but it does happen, moreso with younger/less experienced...

For the marginal amount of drag to run the disengaged clutch when in a performance mode, I'd much rather have the A/C for the other 99% of the time. But that's just me. Interested in the whole pan issue as well, just lurking till then :)

I thought I read on one swap where they turned the plate around, and mounted the clamshell upside down, which moved the whole mount assembly back on the crossmember to clear the A/C. But, I've read about a hundred different swap threads, so it all tends to run together.

Exactly But some people like to buy "kits" Actually, I was wrong, it will install with the stock pan, if you cut up the engine crossmember. I prefer to leave the structural parts of my car intact, thank you. I'm with you, buy the plates, and whatever aftermarket crossmember you need (or...

It doesn't.

A little contradictry, I'd say "This kit is for the G-body 1978-1981 Monte Carlo, the kit includes LS1 style motor mounts ether the automatic 4l60E/700r4 or T-56 6 speed cross member, frame mounts and trans mount. This is the only way to fit a LS engine in this body style G-body this is a...

I voted flat black, since there wasn't a semi-flat (satin) choice