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Try working on vintage muscle cars! You will be cutting holes from the inside with a cutting wheel. Cut a 4x4 square on 3 sides, peel the floor/trunk back. Get whats left of the bolt/cage out. Make trapazoid washer, drill a oversize hole in the middle and weld a nut on the other side...

Here is my thought for what it is worth. Yes, the TRZ bushing is a nice peice, have them in my Cutlass. Funny thing, my "ears" were to narrow on the stock 12 bolt, had to make a spacer, go figure! But can you survive with out them, yes. The arms you have already have joints on one end so...

I use wood. One long 4x4 and a stack 6" 2x4s. It is best to use 2 floor jacks. I run the 4x4 next to the frame and use 2x4 as spacers to hit the floor bracing. You are trying to spread the load over a large area and lift evenly. The floor will crush if you just stick a floor jack under it...

Re: Anyone got a good gbody frame diagram This was kinda tricky. I think I got both the frame and the body sized right. I forgot to add a legend for the Body braces but I think everyone know what they are by now.

Re: Anyone got a good gbody frame diagram Don't sticky it yet, not done. Here are the body braces.

Re: Anyone got a good gbody frame diagram Thanks, that worked. Here is what I wanted it for. Any chance you have a 3/4 line view of the body. I would like to do one with the body braces also? As you can tell from the pics below, I found a nice line drawing but would really like a 3/4 if...

What upper arms do you plan on running?

My (poormans)recipe for the rear bars is to leave 1 set of the uppers bushings stock rubber to avoid bind. Get Camaro bushings they are supposed to be stiffer but still allow twist. My 83 Wagon is set-up as follows: FRONT:Moog 5608, poly bushings, Hollow 36mm Fbody bar, Gabrial VST shocks...

I checked the one on this site but it is small. When I resize it, it is too blurry. Looking for something that will fill a 8 1/2 x 11 sheet.

These do hit the tires harder and are supposed to work on lower powered cars ( sub 400hp).

638montecarlo, I stay away from the firewall deal for a few reasons. First, alot of classes want "stock firewalls" to control costs and engine set backs. Also, according to the book (NHRA), if you modify the firewall you have to add lower windshield/dash bar. Again for a all out effort...

Time for a Pontiac motor. ;) That background looks familar , where are you from? My car was doing the same thing. I ditched the 90/10 for QA1s, thanks for the advice Todd! Also added my own rear sway/anti-roll bar. 60' only increased .02 to a 1.44, but the car leaves straight and flat...

Rebuilt front end with poly , Comp 3 ways 70/30 D/S , 90/10 P/S , no sway bar . Rear: Adjustible uppers, solid adjustible lowers, QA1's set at 8, 15/17# in R/R air bag , no rear sway or anti-roll Twists to a 1.46 60' [email protected] MPH

I was inforned that my spreadsheet link died??? :? Here is a new one. http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=pw4RXuqpgZP2zw_QcQHvESA Remember to click on "sheet 1" Thanks for looking.

You must be bringing him up right (no rice). ;) Here is my proud papa moment. Was crewing for my friend,runs a old school 7 second FED. His daughter runs similar looking Jr Dragster. My 8 year old daughter tagged along. We were running our azz's off between the 2 cars, both being remote...

http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key= ... K8EQ&gid=2 Not sure where the colored horizonal lines came from? They showed up when I copied it? Here is what I have done.The numbers in Italics are numbers from other sources that I have not weighed myself. I update it about once a month as...

If you wire into the signal wire that goes to the starter you will be fine. Another option would be the purple? wire that goes to the HEI,it would crank,draw attention but not start.