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Best bet is to get a diagram, if you don't get any other response... what vehicle is it out of? I don't know how the newer ones work, but both large red wires ultimately run back to the battery, the brown is the "excite" wire and comes from the ground side of the "battery" light in the dash.

For a bi xenon setup I plan on tapping into the wire running from the headlight switch to the high/low switch, this will keep the bulbs on all the time (trigger wire for a relay), and the high/low switch will still retain power for triggering the shield for high/low beam... this is an H4 setup...

1st problem: I wouldn't be surprised if the tach needs repair, a lot of them go bad and will either read 0, read at an odd ratio (i.e. 1700rpm at 1000 actual rpm), or peg like yours does. It has to do with a reisitor "pack" (looks like a white i.c. chip) or capacitor, sometimes both. When the...

The scattering is why I'm considering a projector. I had a 300ZX last year with some drop-in HIDs in a glass housing. They were bright as @$#% but, like you said, when they weren't aimed almost right at the ground they blinded everybody else.

I have the diamond style... I've had them for probably 8-9 years now, before HID was even a thought. You can kinda see them below.

I haven't read the full replies, but I'm still considering HID myself. I would likely use a bi xenon style, where part of the filament is covered until a solenoid is triggered... probably try it in my current housings (already have H4s on the Malibu), and then decide whether or not I would want...

Indeed... I didn't tighten it very much, just noticed it was tight and backed it off until it moved freely. Plus, if that happened it would give me an excuse to upgrade :lol:

:? ](*,)

I believe 235/60/15 may fit ok without any rubbing up front... then again mine sits kinda low.

I would say both just to be safe, saves on buying adapters that have to come off for any service on the rear. Good luck with the front, anything over 8" with less than 5" backspacing will look a little weird, aka tires will start to stick out from the fender. With a 9.5" wheel and 275/40/17 mine...

I changed mine last year and at first I tightened it down & discovered it wasn't supposed to be tightened. I backed it off until I had friction-free rotation and as little play as possible... should I shoot for a little extra play to account for heat expansion? I haven't driven the car, and the...

Indeed, I would go at least 8" on the rear. 8" is the max for 4 matching wheels on a stock suspension... though you can go a little wider in the rear.

I originally didn't know there was a plug on the case, until I cleaned all the crap off it to paint it :shock:

Yup, generally you can run up to about 4.75" backspacing if you need that much, if your rear bushings are all good you can probably go to 4.875", but will need a stiffer sidewall (i.e. 17" wheels, etc.). I had a set of 17x9.5 under the rear of mine at 4.875" bs and it would've only needed a lip...

Woah your engine is purple!!!

The stock size on TBI is 3/8" feed, 5/16" return, pressures are around 12-15psi. I'm running a Vortec replacement pump in the 18-23psi range with a vacuum reference regulator on a Vortec 383 and I'm pretty sure I don't have any issues, stock Vortec pump is rated at 60psi. If I remember right...

Nice to see some serious LS power in a G-Body \:D/

http://www.flynbye.com/catalog/c7_p1.html Good brake goodies.

Had a couple pics on my phone when I woke up this morning \:D/

Yup, I considered a set back when I had my Sonoma.