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Do you know what part the other one is? One of the reasons I'd rather not get the one you linked is it looks ugly to me puke.gif

In all the years I've worked on cars I never had as much trouble as I did after taking it to this brake shop (Brake Masters). They seem to be making good on it though, so I don't really have any issue with them... I know stuff happens but at least own up to it if you know it's your fault ...

So I did the front brakes and had the rotors turned on my aunt's Rendezvous today... not too daunting of a task, right? Wrong. I broke 2 adjacent studs, and a third has the starter portion of its threads messed up. I knew I should've followed my better judgment and had the guy take off the...

That's just a low-beam setup though, correct?

More bearing surface too :D

Springs will probably have a softer ride to allow more stored energy for the launch/racing, spindles are more for driving because the only thing they do is move the rotor/caliper up 2" on the spindle itself. I don't race mine, so it has Hotchkis springs & Belltech spindles.

Bearing size is the difference. Got these part #s from Rock Auto. 1978 NATIONAL Part # A2 {Taper Bearing Set; Cone Length=0.475" Bore=0.75" Outer Diameter=1.781" Width=0.61 StoundOut=0.135" Cup Length=0.475" Cone Radius=1.046"} - Outer NATIONAL Part # A6 {Taper Bearing Set; Cone Length=0.465"...

Subscribed \:D/

Would you be willing to divulge privately? :lol: I have no plans to race, but if I make a 383 out of this 350 I'll probably be putting a bigger cam in, and plan on driving the car pretty regularly.

I've seen them run to bosses on the intake with later models.

There is also usually some sort of brace that runs somewhat parallel to the engine, to keep the belt from pulling the compressor forward. I don't have any supports on mine - just an A/C delete pulley right now - and it's been fine, but I may add some in the future if I stick with this setup and...

So I'm just sittin' here browsin' and brainstormin' about wheels for my truck, and came across these...

If it's a '79 there's a chance they may have been using what they had left of the '78 spindles/rotors, though I'm not positive. I wouldn't think it would affect the outside dimension where the rotor slides on though, even if the bearing was a different size.

So long as the correct wire goes to the bulb, you should be able to simply splice in and run the wire to the alternator.

In all honesty I don't think that adapter is really necessary unless you plan on reverting back to the original SI alternator (why someone would you never know). Plus, if you're using the original wire the charge/alternator lamp in the cluster provides enough resistance, and you can...

Tubular arms are stronger than stamped arms, but I'm not sure if you'll ever put enough stress on them to worry about it unless you're a hardcore autocrosser.

Sweet :D

If you could, do me a flavor and check with an ohmmeter between the positive battery cable and the brown wire (with the key on) to see if there is any resistance, you should see something, an open circuit would likely mean you're not getting the connection you need to the alternator for it to...

Like Scotsea said you may have a fusible link that's open. Thing that confuses me is the headlight switch provides +12v to the running lights and headlights, and you said you do get power to the headlights when you turn the switch on, which is why I suggested checking the switch.

I doubt the support made a difference. Have you checked the wiring for the turn signal switch yet? They're not affected by the headlight switch which leads me to believe there is a bit more going on than just the wiring related to the headlight switch.