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You will need springs with a higher spring rate to take care of that... it won't ride as smooth though. The color looks different - I thought it was more of a dark raspberry style?

Last I looked, I thought the clutch switches weren't available new anymore... is anyone reproducing them? Mine still works fine, but there will come that one day...

A)No NSS in G-Bodies, it's a mechanical stop, and B)No NSS in stick shift, there is a clutch safety switch you need that mounts to the clutch pedal bracket. See if the different colored wires go to the same terminals, if so they're probably still the same, other than that it should just bolt in.

I would have to consult my shop manual, which is in MI of course :x

The tan one will be for the oil pressure sending unit (with factory gauges). http://www.maliburacing.com/wiring_diagrams/OptionalGagePackage.jpg

Looks like I have some planning to do. I couldn't get a full turn running 17x9.5 with any less than 5.875" to clear the suspension, but that was with the Belltech spindles. I'm pretty sure yours has to be sitting lower than stock with that profile tire and such a small gap.

Everything I've read is don't run a solid mount, too much torque on the case and it often splits the bellhousing. Those are some pretty welds :D

Soooo what's the suspension like on the front?

Lookin' forward to pictures :D I'm still unsure what I'll want to do, may wind up with aftermarket spindles whenever I do a brake upgrade, who knows... then I'll revisit the wide 17" wheels.

I take it you're talking to me? 95% of what I see around here are clapped out Hondas or Nissans. Every once in a while I'll see something that's genuinely fast, but the rest of the time it's an oil-burning clunker with a fart cannon.

What I do... Fill a clear bottle partial with brake fluid. Put a wrench over the bleeder. Put a tight-fitting hose over the bleeder, and put it in the bottle with fluid. Keeping an eye on the fluid in the master reservoir, slowly pump the pedal by hand until bubbles stop appearing in the...

Dreamed about stoplight drags and eating local imports alive... so may fast car wannabes around here.

Re: 1998 Chevy BBC 454 Vortec motor and 4L80E trans question Lots of people do... EFI is capable of being tuned much more finely than a carb. A carb can be tuned pretty well, but EFI runs of sensors that keep everything much more in check. EFI also doesn't have to be re-tuned for altitude...

Re: 1998 Chevy BBC 454 Vortec motor and 4L80E trans question If you aren't planning on modifying the engine you could have the factory pcm flashed to get rid of the vats, but it can also be flashed later if you want to add a cam, etc. For the most part you could make it plug & play, you would...

Re: 1998 Chevy BBC 454 Vortec motor and 4L80E trans question WELL... here's the route I've taken on mine, and where I will probably go.. at least with the top end. The longblock is actually an '88 TBI flavor, 100% stock. I had it balanced, and did rings, bearings, etc., and dropped it in with...

Re: 1998 Chevy BBC 454 Vortec motor and 4L80E trans question Oops, looks like I was wrong about the cam/power... first stage was more in the 400hp/500lb.ft. range. They did a few articles on it, at different stages.

Re: 1998 Chevy BBC 454 Vortec motor and 4L80E trans question Car Craft built one on the semi-cheap. I don't know what (production) heads they used, all I know i they were peanut port, and it made something around 450hp/550lb.ft., called it the Blue Collar 454, I believe the cam was around...

Re: 1998 Chevy BBC 454 Vortec motor and 4L80E trans question The frames are the same, you will need the correct engine mounts and headers. I'm not sure what the most desirable BBC blocks are, but I do know there is a decent amount of stuff available for pretty much everything but the 8.1. The...

Once I learn to weld at least close to that I figure I'll be good \:D/

I'm guessing the kit will have a hot wire to run to constant +12v, and possibly a ground... my thinking is the original headlight plugs will trigger the relays.