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You may have to press your hand against one pipe in that case to force all the gases out one side (don't do this after it's warmed up of course :lol:), but otherwise it should work.

Hey, they were "working" on repro doors for how long? Now they're finally out :D

Have you talked to any machine shops in the area? They may have some advice as well.

The one you listed would bolt to the crank on a 2-piece rms motor, but it wouldn't clear the bellhousing. That's why the 153-tooth is needed. I went through this ordeal when I first dropped the 3-speed in mine, it's when I first learned of the differences between the two flywheels. I had...

I found these on Spaghetti Eng.'s site, would save you from having to install resistors for the taillights. http://www.spaghettiengineering.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=34

What engine are you putting in? The one you listed is for a 168-tooth, which won't fit in the stock G-Body bellhousing. Depending on a 1-pc. or 2-pc. rear main seal, here's what you'll need: 2-pc...

If you can afford it, it may be better to get new sockets & relays, just one less 'used' thing with a chance at having a shorter life (relays usually last a long time though). Something to think about, if everything is going to be under the hood, look for some factory underhood relays... one...

:lol: No, but it can cause stuff it's hooked up to to not act how you think it should ;) Some flashers are load-sensitive, meaning if they have more or less resistance than what they're designed for, they'll flash faster or slower than what they were originally supposed to...

That green one a couple pages back? That's bigbu's. It's almost the same color as my '78 though :lol: It shouldn't rub with 225/60s I wouldn't think, that's not a very big tire. 275/60s on the back a lot of people here have run, but I think clearance is a little tight.

Yeah, for the indicators you're fine with regular 12v LEDs, but the low current draw compared to incandescents will cause the blinker to act up, which is why I was talking about the dummy resistor. They go in parallel with the bulb, not in series. Using them will cause the blinker to function...

Isn't that the kit that allows you to use the Cadillac calipers?

:roflback:

Considering I'm running 1900x1200 they only fill about half my screen ;) The flag/stripe look is different, and yes, you got a steal :D

Always nice getting car parts in the mail... it's like Christmas every time they show up :lol: :D I think we need some more pics of that Monte :D

Since weight typically transfers to the front under braking, you don't need as much pressure at the rear. I'm not sure how the stock MC is set up, you may run into issues with braking if pressure, etc. is equal between front & rear. You may need to put in a prop. valve for the rear.

Good find :D 'Metric' calipers... are we talking about the same calipers as the front?

Looks like you're missing some parts ;)

One possibility is to use a 1-wire alternator for charging, then you don't need to worry about finding the wire if you don't need it. In reality you'd just need a switched 12v source to run a regular alternator (may need a resistor though to simulate the resistance of a dummy light).

Fusible links are the devil :P Mine burned out a couple years ago, and I ran new wiring directly to the battery (instead of down to the starter past all the exhaust heat). Haven't put fuses in yet, but it's definitely not getting fusible links again.

I just stumbled across this site, thought some may find it useful. http://www.installdr.com And now the GM radio harness... http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/GM-Wiring.pdf