Does anyone have any tricks to removing the boost valve from a 700R4/4L60? It sounds like it's catching on the case, but I can't be 100% sure.
700R4 boost valve removal
- Thread starter Doober
- Start date
Only thing holding it is that snap ring, might have just use a pair of long needle nose and pull it out, it should just fall out though
it can't really catch on the case, it may be catching the pump body, might have to twist/wiggle/pull on it, I've done several, but never really had an issue pulling em out
the spring behind it may be cocked and putting a side load on it, try pushing it back up a little
the spring behind it may be cocked and putting a side load on it, try pushing it back up a little
Ok, I'll get under there next free day I have and give it a shot... I couldn't really tell if it was the body or case from the angle I was looking, plus there was trans fluid everywhere.
I've also been looking into ways of cycling the old fluid out of the converter... Thinking I'll run a line from the return side of the cooler to a container outside the truck and do it 1 gallon at a time.
I've also been looking into ways of cycling the old fluid out of the converter... Thinking I'll run a line from the return side of the cooler to a container outside the truck and do it 1 gallon at a time.
As Boostin said above, push it in & it should straighten up enough to come out. Push & quickly release, watch out for the tension on Pressure Reg. spring.
www.sonnax.com
Reverse Boost Valve Kit - K77898A
Vehicles with GM 200-4R and 4L60 transmissions often have complaints of poor Reverse boost or upshifts in manual low. This complaint is generally caused
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I already tried that 
Hopefully I don't have a mess on my hands... tomorrow is my Friday, so I'll hopefully have some time to dinker with it in the next few days. I just wish I had a gauge to verify pressure, then I would've known whether or not to even mess with it. Given the engine, it will have to eventually be rebuilt anyway, but money's been super tight, so if I can make it live a little longer with a <$20 part, then I'll do that for now.
Hopefully I don't have a mess on my hands... tomorrow is my Friday, so I'll hopefully have some time to dinker with it in the next few days. I just wish I had a gauge to verify pressure, then I would've known whether or not to even mess with it. Given the engine, it will have to eventually be rebuilt anyway, but money's been super tight, so if I can make it live a little longer with a <$20 part, then I'll do that for now.Getting a good light source helps... I think I was looking from another angle last time, didn't see that casting flash.
Knocked that flashing off and it dropped right out.
Gotta make this trans last long as I can, probably going to double check other things I can without removing the valve body (accumulators, etc.) and make sure everything's in acceptable shape. Do they usually have gaskets on their housings?
Knocked that flashing off and it dropped right out.
Gotta make this trans last long as I can, probably going to double check other things I can without removing the valve body (accumulators, etc.) and make sure everything's in acceptable shape. Do they usually have gaskets on their housings?
Does the transmission have any issues now? The only accumulator you can check is the 1-2 accumulator, 3 bolt housing near where the harness comes into the pan. It may have a plastic piston in it, which are known to crack and cause some apply issues. You can pull the servo out to and upgrade to the corvette servo, which will firm up the 1-2 shift a bit.
Edit: was thinking it was a 4l60e, so it won't have that harness, but the servo will be the same
Edit: was thinking it was a 4l60e, so it won't have that harness, but the servo will be the same
The 1-2 & 3-4 Accumulators don't have seperate gaskets they share the upper/lower Valve Body gaskets.
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