#906 Vortec Heads

[WhiteBu]

Unless you can get Vortec's CHEAP, the mods required to make them survive with bigger valve lift, a different intake, valve covers, etc. really add up, dollar-wise, to the point that considering aftermarket heads is a viable choice.
Here's a nice comparison Vortech to aftermarket:
http://www.2quicknovas.com/vortecheads.html

I've toyed with Vortec's for a LONG time but their purchase, upgrading to a stainless valve package, adequate valve springs and refreshing a set of used heads makes these a logical option.
The Patriot "vortec" 185's outflow Vortec's on EVERY level and still retain the Vortec's chamber and awesome port velocity you want on the street.
They come with all the goodies (stainless valves, plenty of lift clearance, great springs, retainers, etc.) in a lot heavier duty casting as well.
They're $695 delivered on Ebay every day.
See flow charts below comparing stock Vortec's to them.
Here is a link to Patriot's site for info on them:
https://www.patriot-performance.com/xcart/product.php?productid=206&cat=76&page=1

The 906's are not a better flowing "version" of the Vortec.
The 906's actually incorporate an added casting below the exhaust seat (heavy truck application?) that needs to be addressed to bring it up to 062 spec.

I'm sure a lot of you remember when the Vortec's were $250 a piece complete.
Those days are LONG gone.
They've gone up a LOT ($300/ea.+).

 

[Doober]

I'm runnin' the Hot cam on my vortecs but with 1.5 rockers for .492 lift. It's designed for use with 1.6's so the ramps are probably a little lazy in my case but it pulls 18" of vacuum and puts me in the very high 11's with low stress on the valvetrain. Someday when I grow up I'll get a real race cam in there but I used to drive it on the street and had to pass emissions so went with the Hottie.

Could you elaborate some on what you did with the heads? I'm thinking of trying a Hot Cam sometime and I wasn't sure if I could squeeze by with the stock springs and 1.5 rockers or not.

 

[WhiteBu]

Every tech article I've ever read said .450/460" MAX lift with a Vortec because of guide-to-retainer clearance.
That being said, you're going to have to machine the guides down both in height (for more lift) and diameter (to accomodate standard valve springs due to the WIDE guides on Vortecs).

Machining the guides isn't hard at all.
Comp Cams sells a tool.

A friend of mine here in town had a HOT cam with Vortecs years ago in a '79 'Bu.
THAT was a beast. Ran low-11's with a big hit of spray on a 305 Vortec motor out of a truck!
It was always fun to pull out the mirror and show everyone the "5.0" on the back of the block after a pass at the track or at the local burger joint.

 

[cutlass389]

I've read stock lift numbers any where from .450-.480 depending on the source and their tolerance for minimum clearance. In my case I simply replaced the stock springs and retainers with Comp 915 beehives. They are pricey but drop right in with no mods. They offer better control(105 on the seat vs 80 stock) but aren't too strong as to pull the studs like the 918's might. Because of the retainer design, .530 lift is doable with the stock guide according to Comp tech folks. I've been tempted to get some 1.6 rockers but for the cost(2-300 for self aligning) I might as well just get a new cam since they probably wouldn't be that much of a performance gain.

 

[WhiteBu]

I've read stock lift numbers any where from .450-.480 depending on the source and their tolerance for minimum clearance. In my case I simply replaced the stock springs and retainers with Comp 915 beehives. They are pricey but drop right in with no mods. They offer better control(105 on the seat vs 80 stock) but aren't too strong as to pull the studs like the 918's might. Because of the retainer design, .530 lift is doable with the stock guide according to Comp tech folks. I've been tempted to get some 1.6 rockers but for the cost(2-300 for self aligning) I might as well just get a new cam since they probably wouldn't be that much of a performance gain.

I saw those beehives.
They are expensive but worth every penny if their retainers allow THAT much more lift without guide machining!
You still have the press in studs!? Mercy! :shock:

I'm with you......I don't believe the little amount of performance the pricey 1.6's will give justify the expense.
That amount of cash could be better spend elsewhere and net more improvement for sure.

 

[joye227]

I was thinking of running the patriot vortecs but I've yet to hear or see some reviews from other people who are running them. In my case its gonna be Patriot or RHS.

 

[Doober]

That's what I'm kind of up in the air about, the next time I take my motor apart it will be to bore/stroke it (cylinders are ready for a boring) and it would be getting a bigger cam. Since I already have a set of Vortecs, I don't know if I would want to a)just upgrade the springs/studs and stick with what I have, b)go with a set of the aftermarket Vortecs that flow more than a set of stockers, or c)go straight aftermarket. I won't be racing the car, maybe just an occasional trip to the track for test & tune.

I got time though, more pressing matters these days.

 

[cutlass389]

Personally, I believe that vortec heads are the best choice for a primarily street driven car. Their low and midlift numbers combined with small high velocity ports produce incredible torque down in the street use(1000-5000) rpm range. There are countless heads out there that flow more but with bigger, lower velocity ports they aren't in their element below 3000-4000 rpms. That's quite a generalization as there's so many different heads out there but be honest about what rpms you turn when runnin' to the store.

 

[WhiteBu]

Personally, I believe that vortec heads are the best choice for a primarily street driven car. Their low and midlift numbers combined with small high velocity ports produce incredible torque down in the street use(1000-5000) rpm range. There are countless heads out there that flow more but with bigger, lower velocity ports they aren't in their element below 3000-4000 rpms. That's quite a generalization as there's so many different heads out there but be honest about what rpms you turn when runnin' to the store.

Exactly!

If you already HAVE Vortec's and their necessary bits, by all means.....stay with them.
I was only posting a viable option for those of use early small block folks who don't want to invest in all the Vortec-specific goodies required to convert.

What grabbed my attention about the Patriot "Vortec" heads is their flow in comparison to Vortec's.
Telling me they'll shine just like Vortec's do around town and the added port volume will allow them to KEEP flowing where Vortec's fall off.
You're SO right.....so many heads out there only advertise max flow numbers.
Folks latch onto those figures and don't check out the low/mid flow of them.

See the flow charts I posted earlier in this thread for comparison.
VERY interesting indeed!

 

[Shawn F.]

Thanks for the info guys. When it comes to heads I am a complete idiot and know very little about them. I am going to buy the 290HP Crate motor heads for now and use them on the El Camino but for my 63 Chevy II wagon I will run the Vortecs or the aluminum ZZ350 heads that they come with which I am guessing are a little better than Vortec?
For the El Camino I am hoping to push 350-360 HP but now with the heads I am running and cam I doubt I will even hit 310... ](*,) Oh well, as long as it's reliable and half way decent on fuel I will be happy. I will be running this 355 with a TH350 transmission (unless I find a VERY good deal on a rebuilt 200-4r) and the 2:56 gears so mileage is probably not going to be so well. The only thing that helps is the 2:56 gearing. The TH350 is killing me but then again around town it should be good for stop and go. :?