F41 and aftermarket bracing diagrams (pics added)

shotgun

Pro Stocker
Thread starter
Try working on vintage muscle cars!

You will be cutting holes from the inside with a cutting wheel.

Cut a 4x4 square on 3 sides, peel the floor/trunk back.

Get whats left of the bolt/cage out.

Make trapazoid washer, drill a oversize hole in the middle and weld a nut on the other side.

Install the bushings, run the bolt up into the "new" washer and tighten. Just make sure the new part you made will jam in place.

Afte it is all done, bend the flap back down and weld shut.

Fun, fun, fun!
 

racecar77

Pro Stocker
Aug 11, 2007
2,438
0
0
Crete,IL
Shotgun, When I did the mounts on my 70 El Camino I had two of them break the cage nut. I used a hole saw to gain access and after I was done I just snapped a round plastic plug in the hole. Worked great and looked good even though you cant see it anyway. Lee
 

Toner283

Amateur Racer
Aug 23, 2008
293
1
16
Arthur, Ontario, Canada
Doober said:
You're talking about on the G-Bodies? Thanks for the info, I've had yet to look into the matter in-depth, you've just saved me some work :D How big of a hole do you think I'd need?

Large enough to get the tip of your welder into. Like shotgun said, about 4X4 inches.
 

Doober

Moderator
Jun 2, 2003
14,704
1
38
Catalina, AZ
www.cardomain.com
racecar77 said:
Shotgun, When I did the mounts on my 70 El Camino I had two of them break the cage nut. I used a hole saw to gain access and after I was done I just snapped a round plastic plug in the hole. Worked great and looked good even though you cant see it anyway. Lee

That's what I was thinking about with mine, a major reason I was hesitant to undertaking the body mounts until I knew exactly what I was getting into. I may do something like that with the 'Bu before I start driving it for the summer, just an added measure of safety since I don't know what shape the bolts are currently in.
 

tinkertoy

Daily Driver
Dec 8, 2008
41
0
0
st louis mo
just got done putting body back on and had a hard time finding the correct bolts.finnally found them a grainger supply for 10.$ for grade 8 bolt if i remember correctly they are m10/150x80. could be wrong on lenght.they were alot cheaper than napa at 2.15$ apiece . just tought i would toss in my 2cents.
 

79loserbluebu

Frequent Racer
Jun 15, 2009
302
0
0
Illinois-60491
For the GN bushing, is there just one on the driver side or is there one on both sides? Also, what's the purpose of the dummy bushing?

For a street car, would poly be ok? Does the aftermarket bushing kits come with new grade 8 bolts?

And also, what's the best way to prevent snapping a bolt? :-s Seems to me if you hit it just right with the impact it will bust that cage nut, like on newer seat bolts.

I think I'd like to do it Shotgun's way, and set it up on jackstands with a 4x4 behind the front wheels and in front of the rears, and wheel the frame out and coat it with something.
 

1980mailbuwagon

Weekend Racer
Jan 3, 2011
60
0
0
Winnipeg,Manitoba, Canada
when I have to remove body mounts this is what I do.Because I live in a high RUST area I always do extra steps so I don't have to deal with broken bolts.. I used a hole saw and cut a small hole on top of each body mount. Make the hole big enough that you can get your torch and mig welder in. heat the bolt up before you start hitting it with an impact or by hand. I will usually do a couple of small extra tact welds around the nut. after i will sand blast in there and re paint the surface black, or under coat. depending on the car! once you are done you install a black rubber cap and then your body mounts are always service-able. I have also made large square opening and made inserts out of steel. Hopes this helps someone.
 

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