MYMONTECARLO sounds like we have the same system on our cars..I have not install my master cly. or any brake lines yet. So I would like to know how you end up fixing your so I know what to do or not to do on Mine....Thanks guys
HELP W/ PROBLEM ON MANUAL BRAKES
- Thread starter MYMONTECARLO
- Start date
Try this one on for size...I have the Hotchkis tubular uppers w/b-body spindles with 12" Camaro 1LE discs, SSBC twin piston aluminum calipers up front (for a Caprice) and a Currie 9 inch bolt-in rearend with 11" Ford Explorer disc brakes with single-piston OEM Ford calipers. I want to go with manual brakes. Now which master do I use??? Sounds like I'll be doing a lot of trial and error figuring out my setup. Good luck with yours...
When I bought this stuff from TRZ it said to use the 1.032 bore Master cyl. for use with 1 or 2 piston front and 4 piston back. So in my case what take more fluid the 1 piston or the 4 piston....I was thinking that the 4 piston would take more so I would be ok.....Mymontecarlo I sure would like to help you figure this out but I am to far way. So I will keep bench racing untill I hear what the fix is....
Hey guys thanks for reply back. Talking to strang ,they didn't like the way the mastercylinder was acting.,so they ask me to send it back to them. It only cost $11.00 to ship,they said if was a machining error,they would pay for it and ship back.Tommy do think even if that mastercylinder was working fine,that it won't work with gm small metric calipers that come factory on the fronts of g-body?Strange didn't think that should be a problem with those calipers. Get back to you with any information when i found out..
MYMONTECARLO said:
Well, if Strange's techs think those calipers should work with the master they spec'd out, I would think you'd be OK. I know I've seen that problem with stock masters, so that's what I based my thinking on.
Tommy
I got my mastercylinder back, strange sent it back ready to put back on car,benched bleed,I installed and also replaced factory rubber line w/tee in rear of car.rears seem to work,I DID NOTICE I have factory size line going into stainless lines to calipers that are #4 line(1/4"). Should I keep all the lines the same size? Also I have 1/4 line going from rear rubber line w/tee up to the proportioning valve then 3/16" hard line to mastercylinder,should i also change that 3/16" line going into mastercylinder. What size lines you guys running w/these disc kits ,w/disc all around??? Well now my problem is the front passenger side. It bleed fine,work for a second ,then sticking issue.Has new caliper,factory rubber line,new hard line,size 3/16",going into tee,up to mastercylinder,replace rubber line again,same thing, driver side works great,same set-up,what the ....... Should I replace those rubber lines ? what would you guys recommend??
Ha,just wanted to update,finally I have everything working,looks like that mc will work w/factory calipers in rear,car stops good,would like a firmer pedal,but the more I drive it the better it feels to me,going from great power brakes,so I was used to a very firm pedal,I do have a little heat in rear brakes that make them squeek a little when they get warmer,just cheaper pads,might want to change,but I"m happy that it finally work right,I know you have to bleed that mc with caps off,just cover w/papertowel,master sprays a little,strange said that was the only way you can get all the air out of system,due to caps causeing pressure build-up in mc,trapping air into sytem.so if your having problems bleeding,make sure caps are off.Also I extended rod to get more pressure,to rear calipers.
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