My camshaft is robbing me!

LS6 Tommy

MalibuRacing Junkie
May 15, 2004
15,847
1
38
North Jersey
slimbo5 said:
uhhhhhhh...wrong. a holley power valve feeds the booster circuit. the only time an open power valve will put fuel into the engine is when the mains are flowing. generally this is between 2500-3000. at idle the carb is being fed by the idle circuit and if the blades are too far open they will also feed into the transfer slots. its a big misconception that a too high vacuum rated power valve will flood a engine at idle.

Ya beat me to it, Slimbo!!

BTW, if you're planning on driving the car on the street, I'd stay away form locked timing. That's "old school" drag only tuning.

Tommy
 

gbodyera

Amateur Racer
Thread starter
Jan 14, 2010
190
0
0
Miami- Detroit
Ok. I picked up a Edelbrock750, got everything set on it. First I changed the check valve at the booster. New plugs. I adjusted the valves with the engine running today.WHAT A DAMN MESS. NOTHING BUT SMOKE! I also got the timing at 10 degrees initial. Its good. Idle is 900-950 rpm and drop it in gear and it idles very lumpy at about 4-500rpm but it hasnt stalled yet. The brake pedal is a little softer. Ive just been playing with it in my yard today. I feel good about the adjustments Ive made. Im just waiting for my canister, should be here tomorrow. The vac is still low at about 11-12 pounds.
 

80montecarlo

Dragway Regular
Apr 24, 2008
1,123
0
0
cloverdale b.c. canada
well your neutral/park idle is going to have to be higher as the idle in gear is too low
 

fastheavychevy

Amateur Racer
Nov 30, 2009
221
0
0
I drive my car on the street everyday its my daily on pumped gas 89 octane with 64cc heads making 9:7 .1 comp. It used to run like crap before with a new accel billet distributor with the vacum advance. I adjusted the carb over and over again changed power valves. I moved the Timming adjusted the rocker arms checked for vacum leaks. I even almost thought the convertor was bad. I then tried a fixed timming I think its at 35 total timming and now its runs like a bat out of hell. Now I need new tires from smoking them to much.Oh also it always used to ping with the vacum advance connected and idle like a piece of junk. Now she stays the same rpm's in all gears smooth as silk. and also she stays running in the morning without having to keep your foot on the gas. also she starts the first time. I love the fixed timming. and yeah Im 37 so I am kinda old school.
LS6 Tommy said:
slimbo5 said:
uhhhhhhh...wrong. a holley power valve feeds the booster circuit. the only time an open power valve will put fuel into the engine is when the mains are flowing. generally this is between 2500-3000. at idle the carb is being fed by the idle circuit and if the blades are too far open they will also feed into the transfer slots. its a big misconception that a too high vacuum rated power valve will flood a engine at idle.

Ya beat me to it, Slimbo!!

BTW, if you're planning on driving the car on the street, I'd stay away form locked timing. That's "old school" drag only tuning.

Tommy
 

gbodyera

Amateur Racer
Thread starter
Jan 14, 2010
190
0
0
Miami- Detroit
I may give that a shot if this vac canister falls through. The idle is surging right now up and down a little. I swear its no vac leaks.
 

gbodyera

Amateur Racer
Thread starter
Jan 14, 2010
190
0
0
Miami- Detroit
I also forgot to mention that I have a 2 inch carb spacer on there. If it matters.
 

MalibuMan1979

Frequent Racer
Aug 17, 2008
506
0
0
flint, (lapeer), michigan
fixed yet?
my car used to idle in gear at 800 rpm, 9" of vacuum in gear and the carb could not be adjusted with the air screws.
the cam i use is a summit 214/[email protected]/.465@112 lsa. i thought this would be a mild cam and not adversly effect the carb. i was wrong. apparently my transfer slots were too far open at idle. so instead of drilling my primary butterflys, i cracked my secondary butterflies open a hair. this allowed me to close up my primaries which closed up my transfer slot and allowed me to adjust my idle air screws. good times.
well i was at the strip and put a light on my timing marks and noticed my advances were all over the place. after reading the essay on vacuum advance. i pulled my distributor and rebuilt it and installed a new accell adjustable vacuum advance. put some medium springs in it. put it on the car. set total timing at 34 degress. adjusted the idle and air screws using a vacuum guage. idled smooth, 12" of vacuum. adjusted the vacuum advance to lead in at 1500 rpm and all in at 2500. haven't had it back to the strip yet, but it's getting there.
 

gbodyera

Amateur Racer
Thread starter
Jan 14, 2010
190
0
0
Miami- Detroit
Well, my vac. res. canister finally got here from Jegs today. I hooked it up and its a little better. I dont know if I even have the lines right. The idle still drops to about 500 if my idle in park is 1000. Well at least my brakes are much softer. Maybe Ill add a second canister if that works. I just dont have the money for a vac pump right now with all of the rest of the things I have lined up.
 

gbodyera

Amateur Racer
Thread starter
Jan 14, 2010
190
0
0
Miami- Detroit
I ran into a guy who has the same problem as I do and he said he's gonna try an adjustable vacuum canister to mess with the timing. Will that help anything?
 

slimbo

Moderator
May 21, 2007
4,223
0
0
www.yellowbullet.com
just lock the timing. i run mine locked at 38. at least your gonna need the distributor curved. most camshafts (that are more aggressive than stock) or going to want more initial. i would run at the least 20 initial and 18 degrees of advance. it will make the idle smoother and the engine more responsive.
 

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