New guy 79 factory 4 speed wagon.
- Thread starter Mighty
- Start date
Next hiccup. The original 1/2” temp sensor is too big for the AFR’s. Looks like I need a 3/8 NPT to fit. Would definitely like to keep the factory gauge working. I don’t know anything about the ohms or resistance for this thing. I’m all ears. Also, I’m going to return my push rods and get a set of 7.900. Everyone was happy with the 7.8 but even happier with the 7.9’s
I guess I have enough factory wire to reach where the intake is drilled for a temp sensor. After some reading this sounds like a pretty common complaint that people realize after they buy heads lol.
What a PITA. Using the intake is an option and keeps the wiring away from the exhaust.
While looking at the senders for different years, it appears the later sender is a smaller thread.
1979: ACDelco 213-4792/2134792 Engine Coolant Temperature Sender | CarPartsDiscount.com
1987: ACDelco 213-4793/2134793 Engine Coolant Temperature Sender | CarPartsDiscount.com
Unfortunately, the thread is not described in these listings.
The same parts may be better described on other sites.
When you read about others having the same issue, was there any mention of a valid sender with a different thread? Surely, someone has already found a solution using the original sender location.
While looking at the senders for different years, it appears the later sender is a smaller thread.
1979: ACDelco 213-4792/2134792 Engine Coolant Temperature Sender | CarPartsDiscount.com
1987: ACDelco 213-4793/2134793 Engine Coolant Temperature Sender | CarPartsDiscount.com
Unfortunately, the thread is not described in these listings.
The same parts may be better described on other sites.
When you read about others having the same issue, was there any mention of a valid sender with a different thread? Surely, someone has already found a solution using the original sender location.
The bad thing from my reading is that AFR will drill the holes out bigger if you request it but no one finds that out until after they receive the heads. I’ll have to look around and try to learn about the resistance and ohms and all of that and compare it to the later model ones. Or just use the intake…… I’ve got plenty of time. I might look through a Grainger book or something like that and see if I can find something similar
Finally made it back to the shop. Had a bug hit me last week just in time for Thanksgiving so I haven’t been doing anything. Got my 7.9 pushrods and put a couple in and ran the marker test. Watched a video and did some reading and tried to set valve lash myself. I did the entire drivers side head but my brother finished up for the night in his bay and walked over on his way out the door. Wiggled a couple rockers and push rods and asked some questions and I decided to just loosen all the poly locks back up and have him walk me through it Thursday night hopefully lol. So bascially all I got accomplished was torquing the rocker studs down but I was cautious enough to put thread sealer around the 4 studs that protrude into the intake runners. Pretty soon I’m going to have to figure out what I’m going to do with my carburetor situation…..
I just found the factory pushrod length is 7.818 in.
www.chevelles.com
The pattern you showed looks fairly well centered.
It will be good for your brother to walk you through the lash setting. It can be done by rotating the engine at different locations and setting lash for specific valves, as the factory did it. It can also be done dynamically, with the engine running, but is messy unless you use special clips on stock rocker arms to deflect the oil shooting from the pushrod hole, or by using a valve cover with a small slit cut in it to access the rocker arm nut. I have done it both ways and prefer the static method, like the factory did it.
What is standard SB pushrod length
The pattern you showed looks fairly well centered.
It will be good for your brother to walk you through the lash setting. It can be done by rotating the engine at different locations and setting lash for specific valves, as the factory did it. It can also be done dynamically, with the engine running, but is messy unless you use special clips on stock rocker arms to deflect the oil shooting from the pushrod hole, or by using a valve cover with a small slit cut in it to access the rocker arm nut. I have done it both ways and prefer the static method, like the factory did it.
Yep, when I originally googled the factory push rod length there was a slight variety/range that I came up with. The box just says sbc push rods +.100. When I tried the valve lash I started on cylinder 1 and spun the engine while watching the lifters and started my adjustment when they were at the lowest point. Then spun the engine and repeated the process working my way back but he got to talking about collapsing the lifters so I decided to back everything off and wait for his help.
The shop manual has a procedure starting with TDC on compression with cylinder 1 when certain valves can be set. My Haynes book has the same procedure but also included a tip to more accurately finding zero lash with a .0015" feeler gauge. I am attaching an image of the page. I find this procedure much easier than trying to watch valves and guessing when it is time to set the lash on a specific cylinder.
I have also attached the page from the 1986 factory service manual for reference, which has the same procedure without the tip of using a feeler gauge to more closely hone in on zero lash.
I have also attached the page from the 1986 factory service manual for reference, which has the same procedure without the tip of using a feeler gauge to more closely hone in on zero lash.
Awesome thank your for that. That’s one thing my brother mentioned about how there’s way better methods than eyeballing it. “That’s probably the way dad and his friends did it in 1970. It’s not 1970 anymore.” So hopefully he have some time tomorrow to at least walk me through a couple and watch me do a few more.
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