SUSPENSION ???????'S
- Thread starter killastreetbu
- Start date
Hello
I noticed that you are having traction issues and I wanted to suggest to that UMI Performance has a few products that will improve your traction performance in eliminate any wheel hop issues. First I would suggest going with our lift bar set up! It allows you lower the control arm more parallel to the surface and its a must if you are running a rear sway bar to maintain good ground clearance. And I would also suggest going with a set of adjustable uppers to allow you adjust your pinion angle we offer them in 2 versions a poly (street) and spherical rod end (race version). Below is a link to show you what all we have have to offer! Just another suggestion if that is the vehicle as your avatar I would suggest a tire with a little more side wall as well..
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=8_60
If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help.
Thanks
Brad
I noticed that you are having traction issues and I wanted to suggest to that UMI Performance has a few products that will improve your traction performance in eliminate any wheel hop issues. First I would suggest going with our lift bar set up! It allows you lower the control arm more parallel to the surface and its a must if you are running a rear sway bar to maintain good ground clearance. And I would also suggest going with a set of adjustable uppers to allow you adjust your pinion angle we offer them in 2 versions a poly (street) and spherical rod end (race version). Below is a link to show you what all we have have to offer! Just another suggestion if that is the vehicle as your avatar I would suggest a tire with a little more side wall as well..
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=8_60
If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help.
Thanks
Brad
With a BBC in the nose you are going to have a little more of a challenge. In my opinion, the main priority should be some good shocks all the way around to make the car consistently work well! And when I say good shocks I mean Strange Engineering or better.
What rear end is in the car? How much power does the engine make? How much weight has been removed from the front end? What suspension parts do you have on the car now?
You need to make sure that both the front and rear suspensions move freely as well. On my Cutlass I took out the bump stops in the upper control arms on the front and did a little trimming to gain over an inch of front suspension drop.
A weld in style Anti Roll Bar would be a nice addition as well. Personally, I prefer the way the TRZ piece is designed. They make some killer control arms too.
What rear end is in the car? How much power does the engine make? How much weight has been removed from the front end? What suspension parts do you have on the car now?
You need to make sure that both the front and rear suspensions move freely as well. On my Cutlass I took out the bump stops in the upper control arms on the front and did a little trimming to gain over an inch of front suspension drop.
A weld in style Anti Roll Bar would be a nice addition as well. Personally, I prefer the way the TRZ piece is designed. They make some killer control arms too.
CutlassRacer said:
8.5 REAREND 33 SPLINE SPOOL AND AXLES. ENGINE MAKES A LITTLE OVER 800 NO WEIGHT HAS BEEN SHED AND NO SUSPENSION PARTS. THIS IS MY NEW PROJECT
Hello Again
He's right! Another suggestion to allow the vehicle to hook well is you will need to get the vehicle to transfer weight. A lot a guys that run the vehicles at the track usually go with a coil over set up and with either a single or double adjustable front coil over. And if you are running a stock spring in the rear just go with a good adjustable rear shock as well to allow the weight to carry and not unload fast. If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help. Below is a link to show you what I am talking about.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=8_57&zenid=gqc3mvpcu661i95s2dvqq70j86
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=8_64&zenid=gqc3mvpcu661i95s2dvqq70j86
Thanks
Brad
He's right! Another suggestion to allow the vehicle to hook well is you will need to get the vehicle to transfer weight. A lot a guys that run the vehicles at the track usually go with a coil over set up and with either a single or double adjustable front coil over. And if you are running a stock spring in the rear just go with a good adjustable rear shock as well to allow the weight to carry and not unload fast. If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help. Below is a link to show you what I am talking about.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=8_57&zenid=gqc3mvpcu661i95s2dvqq70j86
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=8_64&zenid=gqc3mvpcu661i95s2dvqq70j86
Thanks
Brad
QA1........................no comment. Well, you will not find them under too many real fast cars, that is about all I can say
Coil overs are not needed, they are a nice addition, but certainly not needed. Call up Todd at TRZ Motorsports. He has a selection of MOOG front springs that he can set you up with depending on the front weight of the car. They are a ton cheaper than the coil over setups and you will not have to have special control arms to use them successfully (and yes I know you can use the QA1 with a stock lower control arm, but they are not designed to carry the full front weight of the car where the shock mounts).
With that amount of power you are really going to need things to be spot on and your converter selection will need to be perfect as well. That kind of power and all of that weight is going to be a challenge, but you can make it happen with the right parts and some tuning. Dont get rid of that rear end! The mounting points for the control arms is in a really good location. You will want to lower the back of the car down until the lower control arm is parallel to the ground. In fact, you may even get the arm pointed down at the ground (higher at the rear end) then use the brackets like BMR sells to relocate the back of the rear control arms to get them level again (their design has the most adjustment holes and has a hole that is about an inch down from the factory location unlike other brands). Start saving for some double adjustable Strange shocks for all four corners. With them you can control the suspension and make the car work.
Coil overs are not needed, they are a nice addition, but certainly not needed. Call up Todd at TRZ Motorsports. He has a selection of MOOG front springs that he can set you up with depending on the front weight of the car. They are a ton cheaper than the coil over setups and you will not have to have special control arms to use them successfully (and yes I know you can use the QA1 with a stock lower control arm, but they are not designed to carry the full front weight of the car where the shock mounts).
With that amount of power you are really going to need things to be spot on and your converter selection will need to be perfect as well. That kind of power and all of that weight is going to be a challenge, but you can make it happen with the right parts and some tuning. Dont get rid of that rear end! The mounting points for the control arms is in a really good location. You will want to lower the back of the car down until the lower control arm is parallel to the ground. In fact, you may even get the arm pointed down at the ground (higher at the rear end) then use the brackets like BMR sells to relocate the back of the rear control arms to get them level again (their design has the most adjustment holes and has a hole that is about an inch down from the factory location unlike other brands). Start saving for some double adjustable Strange shocks for all four corners. With them you can control the suspension and make the car work.
I have a Monte SS that was 3500 lbs last year. Still never got it all the way dialed in suspension wise but I can tell you that the shocks and anti roll bar were huge in helping. I am running strange double adjustable shocks on all fours. I was running 28x10.5 ET Drags but was having problems with the sidewalls giving out on them. I am also running double adjustable control arms on the upper and lower bars and a Moser 9".
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qvfSv-UGj1M
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qvfSv-UGj1M
I've seen chep22's car run at a local track in benton ILL. hell of a car and once he get's lined out should be really fast. I run the simple junk in my ride. Comp 3 way shocks and air bags for ride height control and an anti roll bar on a 275/60 drag radial. I have to carry an extra 65 pounds on the rear to hook it up. Anything more will put it on the bumper and less will spin the tires. Simply put map out the suspenion points and carry as little as it takes. Sometimes a little weight will make it faster.
cherp22 said:I have a Monte SS that was 3500 lbs last year. Still never got it all the way dialed in suspension wise but I can tell you that the shocks and anti roll bar were huge in helping. I am running strange double adjustable shocks on all fours. I was running 28x10.5 ET Drags but was having problems with the sidewalls giving out on them. I am also running double adjustable control arms on the upper and lower bars and a Moser 9".
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qvfSv-UGj1M
Cherp, how do you know when the sidewall is giving out? I know I wont have that problem anytime soon but I was curious.
By feeling the car moving around, looking at the tire marks, and looking at pics of how bad it is wrinkling. Going to radials next year, 315/60's.
