Think I'm going to attempt a rebuild on the Saginaw...

Doober

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Jun 2, 2003
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... just not sure how soon exactly. It's done me well and has taken whatever I've thrown at it (~375hp/415lbft), but it's had a couple small hiccups almost the entire time I've owned it. Downshifting to 2nd from 3rd anywhere above 20mph or so it wants to crunch as it goes into gear (below that is fine, works good everywhere else, thinking a synchro ring may be worn), and years ago I somehow managed to break a tip or two off the reverse idler and the corresponding gear on the cluster shaft - very strange because when I think it happened, I had just started the car after work and simply didn't realize it was in gear. I let it out fast enough to stall the engine, but I didn't think it was anywhere near enough to cause any kind of damage. You can see the pics below it looks like it was rebuilt just before I got it, blocker rings, etc. look brand new. I'll have to replace the reverse idler along with the cluster, and knowing my luck the slider too... hoping to just have to do the 2nd locker/blocker, or maybe find some nice blocker rings and do all of them. Pics in the album are before I put it in the car - if I rebuild I'll likely have the entire case cleaned and paint it up nice.
 
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Doober

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I can't believe the prices I've been seeing Saginaws go for... it's like they're gold now, units that aren't even rebuilt - those are $600+, I thought that was T10 territory? :shock: :-k

I found several places that are now selling cluster/input/2nd/3rd gear sets, I'll probably wind up with one of those, a reverse idler (that's one of the chipped gears), a full rebuild kit (synchros, keys, snap rings, bearings, counter gear shaft, etc.), comes out to probably $560... almost as much as a rebuilt 4-speed, but I'll know what's in it, and I want to learn.
 
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t5montecarlo

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Oct 21, 2007
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The clutch teeth on this gear look good; they are still full sized and pointed.
s302.photobucket.com/user/Skinner12082/media/New Saginaw 4-speed/DSC01918.jpg.html

First gear looks good, but 2nd gear is shot; the points on the clutch teeth are gone...that is why it grinds.
s302.photobucket.com/user/Skinner12082/media/New Saginaw 4-speed/DSC01918.jpg.html

See if you can get a 2.85:1 input shaft and cluster. The other 3 gears are the same.

I have a bunch of used Saginaw parts. If you give me a list of what you need, I will see if I have any good ones. I may have some good reverse gear stuff.

I collected 3- and 4-speed Saginaw parts when I used them in Wagons, but now I don't have a need for them and need to liquidate.
 

bracketchev1221

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Apr 22, 2009
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Can't help you on the parts. Years ago when I did mine there was a guy local to me that rebuilt transmissions for circle track racers out of his garage and he had all the parts I needed. But believe it or not, get a Haynes manual and use the exploded view in there. You can see where all the parts go and how they go. Get some heavy weight grease to hold the roller needles in place while you put it together, and you will need a pair of pretty big snap ring pliers.
 

t5montecarlo

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Oct 21, 2007
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and get a wooden dowl that is a little smaller than the diameter of the cluster shaft; you will need it as a dummy shaft to manage the needles for the cluster.

Don't use grease; use petroleum jelly.
 

Doober

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Jun 2, 2003
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Thanks for the advice, it will probably be a little while until I tear it out, but I will most likely be following this route since I don't have a large amount of disposable income to put toward a TKO600, T56, etc.

I also want to attempt this:
DSCF8658.jpg


I've wanted a v-gate ever since I ran across them and saw one in a buddy's '78 C10 with a blown small block... I'll get a pic of the truck if I can find it.
 

t5montecarlo

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Oct 21, 2007
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A typical 4-speed shifter follows an H pattern between 1, 2, 3, and 4th gear. A vertical gate shifter only moves forward and back; there is no sideways gate between 2nd and 3rd gear. Hurst and Mr. Gasket made one of these shifters. I don't know if anyone else did.

Someone on eBay always seems to have one for sale; I don't know where they are coming from. I don't think the boot is reproduced, so I have seen used boots sell for way too much money.

The shifter requires a large hole in a different location from the original shifter (a few inches towards the driver), and the rods are straight. I had one and the rods don't have to be straight. You could move the shifter further to the right and make bent rods.
 

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