Jordan81 said:
if your trying to keep somewhat of a budget, an 8.8 from a fox body wouldn't be a bad idea either...
I have considered the 8.8 but have yet to see any positive results other than it being installed.... I also don't understand why the swap arms are $600ish from trz plus the cost of the 8.8. that money could be spent on a 9" that is proven to work.
blubaldmontess said:
If your going to get a transmission, may I suggest the 4l80 instead of 60. I say this because they are not that much more, but I've seen people running in the 10's on them stock.
I am sticking with the 4l60 because of the 3.06 first gear. I am most likely going to run a 3.42/3.55 gear. The goal of the car is to be a street car first with a decent RPM at highway speeds as I am only going to run a 26" tire.
the 3.06 first will help with launches while keeping streetability good.
blubaldmontess said:
Is the engine DBW or drive by cable? I talked with jesse at Wait4me, as long as you have all your ducks in a row before sending off the harness, you'll get a lot more power than you bargained for.
The engine is cable TB. I don't have a harness yet and am looking into either getting a stocker to be worked over or buy a complete from ls1wiringharness.com
blubaldmontess said:
The engine mounts, can I ask why your not running the BRP swap kit? Just wondering and not prying. It will allow you to keep the a/c pump in the same place, though it may sit the engine a little high for a stock hood w/o some trimming. I wasn't as worried about this as I have the 3" cowl already.
I can think of a lot better things to spend $469 on then a pair of engine mounts and a piece of metal for a crossmember. Not only that as far as I know it will NOT fit the stock hood with a truck intake. I am keeping the stock hood
blubaldmontess said:
Gauges are easy to keep stock, and you can get the adapter from dakota digital and they're really not that expensive, I believe the one for the speedometer was only about 45 bucks.
I haven't spent any time looking into what this is going to take. I will go this route as I would like to keep stock looking gauges.
If not I will get the Nordskog digital dash for the car.
blubaldmontess said:
For alot of good info on what to do with the motor for more power, well always the l92 heads, again talk to brp they know a guy who gets em at a really good price :O but on performancetrucks.net they've got a bunch of guys running low 11's high 10's with this engine and some minor upgrades, ie heads and cam and computer reprogram.
I am probably going to put on L92 heads along with a new intake but that will be later on.
455_82malibu said:
"Id would say the 4core is overkill, just run a stock replacement plastic tank rad.
Thanks for the info. If a stocker will keep the engine cool then I am all for running it.