Wheel hop help
- Thread starter PONTIACMAN3
- Start date
I just took the lift bars off because everyone states that they are not needed on a hi h.p. car, they did work great and grabbed hard with no wheel hop, they just used to much energy, I was told a parallel running lower control arm is the proper way to go, I guess if I do want to adjust quickly and keep the cars stance I should get relocation brackets???? also car leaves very straight because of the antiroll bar!!!! just seems to wheel hop during the burnout and spin off the line since my 60 ft has dropped, but this could also be because i put a glide in the car compared to the t350 it use to have, I do not drive it on the street much
Hey PMAN. My message system is cramping up. I wanted to get you your answer:
Good catch. The short answer is "our picture is faster than our text on the website". I just rewrote the press kit for this and it's still in the ad shop (Lance's office up the hall).
If you order, they'll be three hole.
UMI Performance is pleased to announce the release of a newly redesigned P/N 3010 lower control arm relocation bracket for 1978 – 1987 G-body cars. Optimize your cars instant center and improve forward traction by lowering the rear of the lower control arm 2", 2-3/4”, or 3-1/2”. These weld-in brackets are CAD designed to accommodate factory lower control arms as well as all popular aftermarket styles. Robust flanges inside the brackets add reinforcement and ensure factory bushings bolt right in. Brackets installed provide an average 0.10 second (or better!) 60-foot reduction and an overall improvement in launch consistency. Brackets are constructed of 0.188" cold rolled 1018 steel, CNC machined to precision tolerances. These brackets will work with all OEM and aftermarket rear ends and can be installed in around an hour – welding required. Premium Grade 8 hardware and installation instructions are included with each kit.
Sorry for the confusion...
ramey
Good catch. The short answer is "our picture is faster than our text on the website". I just rewrote the press kit for this and it's still in the ad shop (Lance's office up the hall).
If you order, they'll be three hole.
UMI Performance is pleased to announce the release of a newly redesigned P/N 3010 lower control arm relocation bracket for 1978 – 1987 G-body cars. Optimize your cars instant center and improve forward traction by lowering the rear of the lower control arm 2", 2-3/4”, or 3-1/2”. These weld-in brackets are CAD designed to accommodate factory lower control arms as well as all popular aftermarket styles. Robust flanges inside the brackets add reinforcement and ensure factory bushings bolt right in. Brackets installed provide an average 0.10 second (or better!) 60-foot reduction and an overall improvement in launch consistency. Brackets are constructed of 0.188" cold rolled 1018 steel, CNC machined to precision tolerances. These brackets will work with all OEM and aftermarket rear ends and can be installed in around an hour – welding required. Premium Grade 8 hardware and installation instructions are included with each kit.
Sorry for the confusion...
ramey
I would raise your ride height slightly first and see what happens. That will give you a little insight into changing geometry. It's not exactly the same, but it's a good start. If there's no wheel hop on launch, it's a stupid question, but have you played around with tire pressures at all?
UMI Sales said:
421 kits will work, they still take a lot of grinding though. It basically comes down to how much power you plan on making with the stock block. If it's going to be much over 550 hp, an aftermarket block would be a really good idea, especially for the abuse it would see from autocrossing, constantly on and off the throttle.
Looks like freshening of the trusty 400 and work on obtaining a stroker block. My 400 was in a '78 Silverado w Vortec heads, Speed-Pro cam, Edelbrock Performer Vortex, Holley Pro-Jection, center dump manifolds and 2-into-1 Flowmaster. It hauled that truck around like nobody's business. It should power the autocrosser pretty well until I can go bigger.
Thanks for the advice.
ramey
Thanks for the advice.
ramey
I got the car to stop wheel hop by stiffening the compression, I also go the car to run the 1.48 60 ft it did last year with the t350 with the powerglide now, I am going to have the converter loosen this winter to 5800 from 5000 ....this should get it going real good and back to the 10.0 mark. check out my youtube vids from this week under the name pontiacman3 thanks
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