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Am attempting to make a deal on the body with the guy that bought it (I can use a bunch of the other stuff), all he really wanted was the frame. I will let you know if it comes through.

He sold it to a dirt tracker.

I'll ask. Might be a day or two, he's hard to catch by phone and not real good about returning emails promptly.

You'll be looking for a used OE piece, there are no aftermarket full quarters for sedans or wagons. If you only need the rear section (wheelhouse rearward), you could use a 2 door panel I can get a full used sedan panel from a guy I know that has one he's parting.

We had a guy that always used a cotton shop towel, said that was the way he learned it back in the 60s

To add to the block discussion, my personal preference is Durablocks. Not horribly spendy, and work well. Also, I have noticed that some people use way too much pressure...you really want to let the block do the work.

It's hard to answer without seeing it in person. Primer/surfacer will fill low spots if they're not very deep, but you really want to limit how much film build is on the car. The major paint mfrs recommend no more than 12 mils, but I know in the real world cars get more than that, especially in...

Location would help...have a couple, but expensive to ship due to size

Are you talking about the plastic strip inside the B pillar molding, or something in the pillar itself? If it's the strip between the molding and the glass, you'll have to improvise.

There are 2 studs molded as part of the plastic. They have speed nuts on them inside the added part of the B pillar. Quite possible the studs will twist off when you try to remove the nuts.

AFAIK, 2" only for steel

Maybe this and paint the center? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&toolid=10001&campid=5338652022&icep_item=321701200998

#3 is the lock plate...locks the steering wheel when key removed #4 is an adapter for an aftermarket steering wheel.

Also functions as the horn contact...the brass ring and tower connect to the horn button/pad on the steering wheel

Obsolete and not reproduced. I have in the past drilled and dimpled a couple of holes in the molding and screwed it in using countersunk trim screws. Works, and most people would not know that it wasn't originally installed that way. If you ask Bar50, he might take a pic for you, he owns the...

The last wagon I had was an ex-woody...I grew to like the 2-tone that had replaced the "wood". The roofrack, not so much. When i removed the roofrack, I used some flush plastic hole plugs I got from our PDR guy, and glued them in. You could do that, and just paint the plugs, which would leave...

Vents only. There is not physically room for the glass to go inside the door. If you open the door, and look at how far forward the glass comes, and where the hinges attach to the door shell, you'll see what I'm talking about. No G body came with roll down glass in the rear doors. The rumor...

If it is/was a woody, there are a LOT of weld studs that will have to come off on the sides. There will also be a bunch of holes to weld up where the retainer strips are in the jambs, and at the ends of the door moldings. Roofrack will leave 15 small holes to weld up, and 8 pretty large ones.

Salvage or ebay Try posting in the parts wanted section on this site first...lots of stuff out there Here's an ebay one https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&toolid=10001&campid=5338652022&icep_item=121608820167

Has an inner reinforcement and shocks to mount to frame rails.