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Wher do you get these "M-80" spoilers? And what do they look like? I am a cutlass guy and still learning the ins and outs of the malibus... I have personally thought about a Monte spoiler on my cutlass, thought it wuold be neat to try out...

ya, I mean it can be done rather simply... but the aftermarket could chime in anytime and help us all out since two of the key components are just not even considered to be remanufactured... and really? $500 for just a linkage setup!? lame_sign.gif

ya, this article has been around for years now, and I guess they figured there wasn't anything to gain from pursuing this idea further... it's like they just let it all just disappear as if it never happened... I talked with them a couple times, and it's like the information never existed...

Re: Edelbrock Anti-hop bars ?'s I would think adjustable uppers would be a good idea to run anyway, that way there's always pinion angle adjustability for ride height and depending on how much you squat off the launch... just my thought...

Anyone tried these? Any good? Are they worth it? Anything that would do a better job and be a better idea? http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/edl-5214.jpg http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/edl-52135214-anti-hopbarsfor64-8.pdf

since we're talking aerodynamics tricks, there is a controversial way the nascar guys cheat for top speed rear wheel traction... they open up a pocket to the trunk area which creates a high pressure zone above the floor and causes the rear to puch down... just a little thought... if maybe you...

They are just hard inverted flare lines, you can buy at any auto parts store and bend yourself... actually pretty cheap... They may vary in sizes, so you may take one off and bring it with you. When I worked at "The Zone", we had rolls of rubber transmission cooler hose in the back you can uy in...

na, I had just figured out all the parts I needed and got them lined up to purchase, but hadn't yet bought anything. My best bet was this car I found about 3 hours away that the guy said had driven good before he blew a head gasket and didn't have the time to fix it, so he wanted to get rid of...

well, I still got the itch to put a 3rd pedal in the Cutlass... I am looking now into a 4-speed setup, but I need to get my hands on a Muncie preferrably... I would probably settle for a Super T-10... I'm waiting on a wonderfully welcome tax return and then the decision will have to be made...

If you never plan on dealing with them for a long time in the future, then I say, they've already reconciled it on they're end by firing the guy. Obviously it is the companies bad management that is costing them. Unless you are feeling really generous and they are willing to pay for ALL the...

I think, since it's a new production block, that you'll be fine... All I would look at now is, whether or not the rest of the valvetrain and intake and exhaust specs are of the right measurements for the displacement and the piston speeds for that stroke... sorry, you may not need to worry...

Well, this is a Ford Engine builder, DSS Racing... they have stated that their 331 strokers can produce more reliable power than their 347 strokers for the Ford engines from 302 blocks... they are stock blocks... and they are Fords, so the initial engineering design may have a flaw with this...

if they are all a safe cylinder wall thickness, then I say the more cubic inches, the better... I would just consider the cooling capacity of the rest of the drivetrain... I hear that thin cylinder walls can cause more heat... not to mention the high compression, with predetonation and all...

275 all the way around? I know those should fit on the back, you may need a 1/4" or so spacer, unless you never want to fishtail... The sidewalls like to flex at that height and rub the frame rail... not sure about the shorter sidewall with the taller wheel... should be a little tighter... of...

I researched some parts to put a conversion together... http://maliburacing.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=79038 ... the availability of parts is a little dependent upon whether or not you have a 3-bolt or 4-bolt axle tube flange and the axle tube diameter and the rear end size... I have the...

That would be great... pictures are always a good addition...

Would it be a good idea to get a 7 inch rim on the front to accommodate the wider tire? or just stick with 8" all around?

ya, that'd be great. I remember when I used to run 235's all around. I loved the look. I'd like to run the same sidewall height all around but have quite a bit wider in the back. Not many people on here do that. Too many drag racers, not enough drivers.

I had a 235 on there at one time, but I believ that, since I was using v6 springs at the time, when the car would drop over a bump, the inner fender wells would rub and eventually started to look like they could cut a hole if they hit hard enough at the right speed. Now I'm running a 205-60-15...

How wide is the widest front tire you guys run? And how did you get it to fit? I'm not a drag skinnies kind of guy and want it to grip and be tight in the front.