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put the horizontal bolts in to connect the two mounts together... then lower your engine down onto the x-member... put one bolt in the frame plate on one side, and then one on the other side... just build your way till they line up... maybe the engine just isn't twisted just right to line up...

Maybe they are upside down... or on the wrong side... just a thought... it happens... not sure how they're set up, but you might check it out...

Electric choke wires are just a switched power source, last time I checked. Just hook in a 14-16 guage wire to something that is switched power and it will power on just fine. As long as the power is switched on, it will heat up and unchoke in the appropriate time. Let me know if I am wrong...

My stock SBC clamshell mounts only use 3 holes. I have seen others doing the LSX swap where they had to move the mounts back one bolt hole with similar mounts.

As far as shocks are concerned, should I be looking for a specific part number like springs? Or do I just need a certain type or brand that is specific for the vehicle?

You are right... I should be focussing on those companies more... I feel guilty now...

I'm really digging the price for their control arms... http://autofabcart.net/1978-88gbodies.aspx

I feel the same way... I am building this car to just be a driving car... not a drag car, though I love the 1/4 mile... not a daily driver, though I would love to drive it every day as I used to... but a driver's car... a car that I could get in and not have any choice but to mesh with the car...

Ok, so I have some bad news followed by some ok news... The TKO-600 project is being postponed to a later period of time when I am in the market for the really gigantic projects... it seems that there are quite a few smaller projects that I would like to get done this year as well and if I were...

Has anyone bought anything from Autofab Race Cars? What have you bought? Is it any good? Would you recommend it? Is it worth it? Most of their components seem really well priced and decently made and wasn't sure if that was a good or a bad thing. Just looking for a little input.

theoretically it would be quite a bit lighter because of the lesser parts and material. Take into account how much a pitman arm, tie rods, center link, idler arm, and the steering gear box all weighs and then if it's power steering you have the pump and resovoir and hoses... all that get...

Any idea what the turn ratios are on these two setups? Also, what do you think the advantage is of switching? Weight savings? Handling?

so... about $530 and I can probably confidently run 11's... well someday run 11's... after I get the engine to push that... that's still not bad to feel really good about the rear end

How does the turning effort on a rack and pinion steering setup like from TRZ compare to a manual steering setup swapped in from say an S-10?

Really? I took my 3.8 out and put a 350 and a TH-350 in and the crossmember matched right up. Is it the doglegged one or straight across? You might check the location of the motor mounts. I noticed that they can be bolted in in a couple of places on the crossmember. What type of transmission...

nevermind... I found one... just curious... and lazy i guess...

Where did you get that trick LS block lifting plate? That is such a good idea and looks like it works really well...

ok, so I should be ok, with just a few extra parts... I wouldn't spend less than 1000 on a new housing if I was going for brute strength, so I guess these extra few parts won't hurt to just piece together a budget assembly that could last probably for as long as I'm going to need it... Thank...

Wow! Thanks for all the responses and input... this always make me feel warm inside when I post a question and it seems like everyone wants to put their 2 cents in... could someone explain this c-clip eliminator thing to me or give me an article to read about them... I looked at a bunch of...

Here is a couple ideas I have already found that could help a little... the aluminum support cover, like you said, and these axle tube braces are some pretty trick additions... http://www.lpwracing.com/p_axletubebrace.asp