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That's true too... it'd bother me though, just a personal thing.

Dixie Resto has that set too. I wound up getting a couple 12pc assortment sets and that covered what I needed for the dash. The grille is more or less in place for now, but I'll probably get that set for the grille eventually.

Interesting... would work well for a rearend without upper control arms.

Thanks... I managed to track down a couple GM numbers, looks like it's between 1 of 2 sizes that I've found, either 1377030 or 14032291, which is slightly smaller.

I've found a few vendors online that seem to have them, but I'm not sure which to go with. I've seen it in the grill and I also need some for mounting the dash back to the cowl. Anyone help?

I was stoked to find out they're made... I'll still need to have it shortened, or run wheels with more backspacing though.

Well, somebody on GBodyForum.com pointed me to SouthSideMachine... I never knew they had arms for swapping a B-Body rear in, but it appears they do. Probably not the cheapest, but sure would take out a lot of guesswork...

The plastic portion of the plug I don't believe so, but I'm not 100% sure. The terminals that snap into place I'm sure are available, that style was used in a few '80s GM platforms.

It's a sprung connector, makes contact with a flexible plastic circuit board.

Overall length (wheel mounting surface) should be around 58-58.5" I believe, and the shock mounts are on the rear side of the axle (right behind the lower trailing arm mounts). I got a B-Body rear, but that's going to be its own little special animal... it will have to be shortened, but if the...

No problem :)

Get ahold of malicad, he's looking for a nice 8.5" :) http://maliburacing.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=124872

That's part of why I decided to try this. I read of a couple other people attempting it, but the upper arms were bout 3" or so shorter, but that would make the pinion move a whole lot when the rear moves up and down. This way I can make the arm whatever length I want (within reason) to best...

No welding on the case, the bracket would bolt to the upper ears and locate the upper arm in the center. I'm up in the air about keeping regular bushings or doing a solid mount, which would probably transmit more vibration. I'm considering finding a cover that would be the center pivot for the...

I don't think I shared this sketch yet... For the most part, this is basically what I've been finding and using for a base to the design... always 2 lower bars and 1 upper bar:

The 1/4 window panels are from (I believe) a Grand Prix maybe? The trim opening for the window isn't as big as it should be. The other panels are in varying degrees of disarray, I'll probably just go on a piece-by-piece basis, but I will have to get different 1/4 window trim for sure. The...

I found the Fays2 link quite a while back. 3-link bars: really? Most everything I've found online shows them about where I'm considering putting them.

I did some looking (hence the 'thinking' part) and may take an attempt at dying the interior green... I'm just not sure if I'd be better off finding decent used interior pieces or dying new repro parts. I would love to keep the original green color.

Mine is actually sage green (which is on there) but that means I'd have to come up with a good matching green dye for new interior panels! Now you got me thinkin! :D

So sometime before July I'll be ordering some carpet (finally), and I'm trying to find out what exactly the colors look like (besides black obviously). Besides black I'm considering a dark gray color... I would stick with the factory green color if anybody ever made it curse_sign.gif