12v @ key on. The wire doesn't go to the gauge itself, it goes to a light bulb if you aren't using a resistor. If using a light bulb, the other side of the bulb goes to 12v @ key on.
The large red wire in the 2-connector plug for the SI alternator actually ties back into the same cable that the charge cable on the back goes to, the wire is there for the regulator to judge resistance if I remember right. The brown wire goes to the 'charge' bulb typically, but a 10-ohm, 25w...
Did its semi-weekly startup. We're in the process of getting the floor done for a pole barn, so hopefully in the next few months I can finally get back to work on it
Ran it for a while and cleaned out all the nasty pack rat nests and crap that were all over the place... I'm hoping they're gone, guess we'll see after a while.
I'm looking at this just to get an idea on price range and rough cost for doing each, but unsure of other added things.
The specific plans for the rear are running a Truetrac, and being stock G-Body width, probably going to do some sort of factory style disc brakes, planning on GM style.
Other...
Started it for the first time in a few months... hoping when cooler weather finally shows up I can get some cleanup done from all the pack rats and maybe get started on the T5 swap.
Yes, they are where the light is. If that doesn't work, try disconnecting the alternator and letting it sit. Do you have any other electronics in the car? Those are the only 2 things that come to mind on a stock car.
I had this happen once, surprised the car didn't burn down, I didn't even know it was laid out like it was at first.
On the other hand I didn't use fusible links, I still need to put those in before I burn my baby to the ground :(
Sweet, I'll have to show this to my dad, he's considering bigger LS offerings to replace his 5.3, they have a camper trailer and the little LS struggles a bit.
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