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So as I'm putting the '78 together I've come across a few connectors I don't really recognize far as their use goes. One of them is this one that comes off the wiper switch: The other is one that, far as I can understand, is run in parallel to the 'charge' bulb that runs to the alternator...

Re: Tilt floor shift steering column... upper portion 'wiggl Thanks for the warning, guess it's a good thing the one I was gonna steal is on a tilt column :)

Re: Tilt floor shift steering column... upper portion 'wiggl Nope, no lock plate, I was wondeeing if that would have an effect on it too, but wasn't sure. I'll pull the plate off one of the other columns I have and see how things go.

Oh I have a 4-speed. I would only put an auto in if I was racing it or I had a major reason to not go with a stick.

Re: Tilt floor shift steering column... upper portion 'wiggl I would guess 1/4"-1/2".

I bought this column a few years ago from a local column shop, no steering wheel or lock collar. The tilt is still tight, but the upper 'stub' shaft wiggles around. Could this be due to missing bearings in the tilt section...

I'd agree with that pricing... I don't know how much a shop would charge to turn it. I don't think it cost very much for the stock cast crank in my 350... but that's a stock cast crank.

I think the original color was cool, but the new one looks nice too. I like the gray :)

Here's one: http://www.holley.com/20-113.asp Constant pressure just takes care of the pressure issues from TV cable maladjustment far as I understand, you still need the TV cable to take care of shift points. I have a different cable bracket on my truck. Since I swapped to Vortec heads I...

Pictures would be great, that will give an idea of what you're dealing with. Check all fuses, etc.

No converters, it sounds good. Check my Youtube channel, user Doober12082.

One of my best friends had an '85 K10 longbed... nice truck after he restored it... had a 355 he & his dad built when we were in high school, don't know cam, heads, etc. but he always babied it. Even after the rebuild it didn't show more than 10psi at 600-700 but was fine above that.

I have an XE268H in mine (something like 1800-5600 powerband) and I'm very surprised how strong it runs for being basically a stock Vortec long block. I know it was just a peg leg... part of the "things to change" list.

Indeed, a BBC will be the easiest power maker. There is a slightly older Car Craft build where a 454 with oval ports made 450hp/550lb.ft. for around $2,600. The link below is slightly cheaper, and about 50 hp/tq less...

Well they're connected to the starter from the factory, I'm running mine to the battery post since the car has headers and I'm not sure if it was heat related but one fried on me a few years back. If there aren't any fusible links in the engine bay be sure to add them, if you have a dead short...

There is a full list of early G-Body wiring diagrams on the main page of this site. Have you checked your fusible links yet????? I know several people mentioned it. Start with the easy stuff.

Yep, the kid that bought the wheels off me had a Monte Carlo he was working on... didn't get any details though.

Ok I'll have to give that a shot :D

Must've been a short piece! I may windup trying a pair of vice grips, I don't see much way of getting ANYthing in there to pull on the end of it besides the short piece of pipe you mentioned.

Ok, so the kid I bought this from had disconnected the torsion bars for the trunk lid. Does anyone know if there is a special tool for putting them on? I thought I had one side done, but it wasn't seated in the little pivot piece that's on the trunk lid arm itself. I got peeved and quit...