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Be sure to have a good connection through the "charge" lamp in the cluster, if not the alternator won't work... the other option is a ~10 ohm resistor, but make sure it's a high wattage ceramic one.

Well, I pulled out my '78 service manual & it just so happens it has them :) I'm not positive it will be the same for '81, but I think it will help :D Doesn't the "computer" just control the carburetor and distributor? I'll get the pics up soon... they cover several engines and applications...

I've wondered the same thing about one for a v8 car... I'll take a gander at my shop manuals while I'm up here & see if there's anything. When I went to one of the testing centers in Tucson back in Feb., I happened to see a guy that had a '78 El Camino. He said it was his 5th year having it on...

I'm not quite sure what the black wire is for on the alternator, what is its original application? Far as the wires, basically all the smaller gauge ones are likely 16-18 gauge, and the larger ones are 10 gauge (coil wire may be 12 gauge but I'm not sure). The tan wire is likely oil pressure...

I agree with going with a 2004R, unless you're making ridiculous amounts of power, then a 4L80E would be my choice. The only way to really drop your RPMs will be a gear change or OD transmission. The best you'll get with a set of taller tires is probably a few hundred RPM lower than what you...

I've seen a belt loop on 2nd gen. Camaro seats that would do the job nicely as well.

Check the pump? I'm guessing this involves removing the top portion of the body? I'm not sure I'll be able to get that involved with the carb (flying out Friday and don't want to leave a car that doesn't run at all). I'll mess with the mixture screws some more tomorrow. I originally started...

So I'm up in Michigan for a few days, and I've driven the Malibu some. What I've noticed is a faint stumble just above idle. I had the same issue before and it wound up being one of the vacuum port plugs on the carb was cracked. This time around nothing is cracked, so I'm a little confused...

I've seen it start showing up, from what I've read so far it's a supercharged 6.2, detuned version of the LS9 from the ZR1 and shows up in the CTS-V (556hp/551tq). http://gmhightechperformance.automotive.com/94564/0901gmhtp-ls1-ls6-ls2-ls3-l99-ls4-ls7-ls9-lsa-engine-history/index.html

Yes, that strap needs to be there to provide a good ground for everything grounded to the body. If your battery is in the trunk with a good body ground it may not be as necessary... still a good idea though because all metals have a resistance-per-foot, and like Lee said you can never have too...

I spend a lot of time lately online... a few other guys rallied on the proper side :lol: I'm still not sure whether or not he'll get it.

I'm looking for something more in the way of an article describing it, but that does a decent job for a picture. I doubt he'll see the light, but I figure I can at least try, right? :roll:

So there is another board that I'm sure many of us are familiar with (and I know quite a few of us are on). A member over there is defending to no end that a ground strap to the body from the engine block will affect charging, specifically on a G-Body. Why he believes this I don't know, but...

4.3s shook a little bit at idle up until they started building them with a balance shaft.... which they didn't have until 1992.

I searched car-part.com and found at least 10 6.0L within 50 miles for around $1,000, 5.3s even cheaper. With the LS1 you're paying for the "name" and an aluminum block imo.

I understand on the buying new heads thing. For multipurpose I think either of the smaller 2 cams are best... kind of stuck far as the heads go for now (bit of a mismatch to the smaller cams), but those are easier to change than a cam & could be done later.

I think this would be best for what you currently have, given the weight of the truck: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-119831/ That, and the heads seem to be a little big imo, unless you're racing it. You could probably go down to 190cc and be safe, possibly even keep the cam you have.

I have an olllld thread that covers a few other things as well, may be of some help. http://maliburacing.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=59266

6spdmalibu's info, mainly on pedals/hydraulics & geometry. Some info in this may be a little different/out of date now, it's been a while since I've written it #-o http://www.maliburacing.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=94053

The one with the insert is likely the one. My '81 is like this. I put the switch in farther than it needs to be, and it gets pushed back far as is-needed when the pedal is released.