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I'll guess anywhere between 2.29 and 2.73 if it's an auto.

Ok now I'm curious... I'll probably be doing a similar setup to what you have, and using a regulator in the engine compartment for now. What type of fitting is actually connected to the pump? I'm thinking it's something like this, but I'm not positive...

Something's missing 8) Looks like it's coming along nicely :D

You did a better job explaining what I was thinking... guess I was a little wrong in my explanation :P

Re: It came from where? :lol: You've solved it!! But why would it be leaking in the first place? shrug.gif Simply covering it with epoxy pretty much masks the problem, I'd like to figure out what's actually causing the leak and what I'd need to do to properly fix it. I parked it over some...

Are you talking about the ignition module itself, or the pickup coil? I've had two pickup coils go out on a previous truck (350 TBI) and it wouldn't run at all. I've never heard of limp-home on a TBI, closest thing I can think of would be it going into open loop, and it runs on a set safe-run...

I had a feeling that might be the case, figured resistance for something like that would be high since it only monitors what the voltage is.

As far as that goes, why is it a large gauge anyway? Is it just to keep resistance down over distance?

I came out to find transmission fluid had run down the driveway this afternoon, only discovered it after I'd backed out. Part of the driveway is on a slant and the garage currently has stuff in it, so the yoke is submerged in fluid... which leads to my question... where the heck could it be...

If you can find a safe route for it, you could connect the alternator to the battery post on the starter, it was done that way at the factory, but it's not my first choice for wiring since it runs right by the exhaust. 4-gauge along 15-20' for that much current will likely cause the drop you're...

You'll need close to a 0-offset (depending on wheel width), so unless you buy axles with the proper bolt pattern & do the B-Body brake upgrade in the front (kind of a backwards way of doing things) you probably won't be able to get them to fit.

Well tell him to step on it!!! We're tired of waitin'!! ;)

Guess you don't have to worry about smacking them on the ground :lol:

If you want 12º, you will simply run the engine with the timing light set to 12º, and adjust the distributor until the light shows 0º on the timing tab/damper.

How do you know? :D

:lol: and at it's biggest gap (8" damper) 1º is just over 1/16... that's why I bought mine with engraved marks :shock:

Montes never had an 8.5, a lot of people seem to think this. Only T-Type Regals/GNs, and I believe 442s had them. 8.5" (note squared corners at the bottom) 7.5" (note "fingers" at the bottom) Chevy 8.2" (note ridge stamped into the cover, no corners or "fingers") BOP 8.2" (note "notches" on...

I missed the last two posts somehow... I actually had an issue years ago on my old truck, I had disconnected the fender ground and didn't realize it, headlights kept freakin' out on me, then I reconnected the wire :lol: I got a PM from the guy earlier tonight. He actually disconnected his body...

Sounds good 2 me 8) Having a higher rated alternator doesn't automatically mean more drag... there will be a little from the inertia of internal parts compared to a smaller alternator, but the load doesn't come in until there's actually some current draw.

Yeah, sort of. With the ratios I listed the car drives just fine. It may be slightly sluggish off the line with the current setup, but I'm focusing a little more on the final drive ratio (trying to make sure lower gears are decent as well), because I want to be able to drive this car across...