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Carbed is easier, but TBI performance is doable with some DIY EFI-type stuff. You can probably squeeze a good 300hp or so from the 4.3, and it was OE in several later G-Bodies with TBI flavoring.

Last I heard the S10 deal was bolt-on? For C5 or LS1 brakes you can do the cut down rotor thing, cheaper imo because I've never really heard of floating rotor bearings going bad (unless they got really hot and the grease ceased to lubricate properly, or just went dry), plus they're much cheaper...

If you go to a hydraulic setup, I think you'll save yourself a lot of headache getting a hydraulic throwout bearing. It's self-containted and slips right over the input shaft (all sexual humor aside :P) so that makes things much easier. It will likely have a separate line coming out of it that...

I finally got some stuff done on the frame for the '78 tonight \:D/

Been driving the '81, tore the headliner fabric out today because there was a bunch of foam that kept coming loose and flying around. It makes one feel very dirty plus every time I've flown up from AZ there has been a nest right above where the passenger side visor resides :knockteeth: I also...

Did :)

There has been a little talk of the delay modules. I think for the trouble of finding an OE one you can build your own, or buy an aftermarket (non-OE) one. One of the guys painted the back side of the 'shadow' portion of his cluster and got a lot more light... originally I believe it's a light...

Personally I'm a little leery about the VT mufflers... heat cycling along with tension/release of the spring will eventually cause it to a)not pull the blade shut like it should due to no more tension, or b)simply break. I have the Pypes system (x-pipe, exits behind rear wheels GN style) with...

It's likely the resistor 'pack' (looks like a white IC chip on the tach circuit board) or one of the capacitors. One of the traces usually goes bad on the pack, and eventually opens or shorts, causing the tach to stay at 0 (short) or peg at its max (open). The capacitor also has something to...

Also be sure of the flywheel size... I don't know if there's a way to check at a glance for 153- or 168-tooth flywheels, but it's something to keep in mind I believe.

IMO that wouldn't be feasible on a street driven car, unless you only drive it on sunny days. Mine will be rain or shine, and I wouldn't want dirty water splashing all over the engine compartment. Fabricated wheel tubs are an option as well.

I have an old 2-bolt 350 sitting out in the yard with the same number as well, intake casting date is '76 I believe, haven't really looked at any other numbers.

Yeah... pics would definitely help... does it sit this low?

I haven't broken mine yet... I don't run sticky tires either, and I wouldn't, not on a stock rear. Before I put stickies on I would put the proper precautions in... 28 spline axles, good posi, and a rear support cover. If I could I'd get that stuff used, would save on a budget for sure.

Yeah, definitely not an uncommon casting number. Just about every older 350 I've seen has had that casting. Since when could you get on Mortec? I haven't been able to get on there in months.

I know the later S10 T5s had Ford bolt patterns, but I think they were only in the 4-cylinders (I had one from a mid-'90s S10 I believe).

:roflback: How do you think big HP street cars are able to run around town? I rephrase... Cars that aren't dedicated drag cars :)

*Votes EFI*

I DROVE IT! \:D/ It felt so good to fire it up... no tags, no insurance, but dang it felt good.

Woah....... purple? ;)