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The 305 HO cam (L69 motor cam) is a decent one. It's got some duration and lift compared to the pathetic cam that came stock in the 267. It's also got a WIDE 115* LSA which means a nice smooth idle. But keep in mind it was built for more cubes and a full point more compression than you've...

They should be -993 casting heads. 76cc "bathtub" chambers, 1.94/1.50 valves, standard ports (non-swirl port, and obviously not Vortec). They're bascially heavyweight casting versions of the old lightweight casting -882 emissions-era heads use on stock 350s throughout the mid-late 70s and...

If it's an aftermarket cam the manufacturer and grind number (possibly the part number) will usually be etched into either the front or rear end of the cam. If it's a GM unit the numbers are often much more difficult to decipher. I've seem many posts from people asking for help figuring out...

Haven't heard of taller lifters, except for the fact that roller-type lifters are taller than flat tappet. Longer (or shorter) pushrods are to get the rocker arm geometry correct so that the sweep of the rocker tip across the tip of the valve stem is correct. Reduces friction but more...

Just about every 305 4bbl engine from 80-81 on up had 416 heads. The low output LG4 and the high output L69 used the same heads. Differences between them was the compression (pistons- dished vs. flattop), cam, exhaust and tuning. If you find just about any 305 with a a computer controlled...

I'd call Holley and ask their tech support. Almost certainly it's going to need a different tune to make it work. Plus there are probably other differences in the air bleeds and such. Might be an easy swap requiring just a jet change, might be much more involved than that. I'd run it like it...

I am not an expert on proportioning valves by any stretch of the imagination, but here's what I DO know: The "proportioning valve" used on zillions of GM cars is actually 2 things in one. Obviously, it's a proprtioning valve to reduce pressure to the rear brakes when you dig deep into the...

Good to know they fit so well. I still have the stock manifolds off my original 454SS truck's engine (same style you used). I held onto them "just in case" like I do almost everything else. Who doesn't have a soft spot in their heart for a cheap big block install? I was going to give my...

While it's certainly not the preferred method there are a lot of motors out there running around just fine with "beaten on" balancers. Including a few of mine back in the old days. It's definitely not "guaranteed engine death" or anything that extreme. I probably built my first 5 or 6...

700HP on a stock cast crank sounds kinda nuts to me. Hopefully it's true since that's about what I'll be making when the bottle goes on my 454! For what you're doing a stock cast crank is fine. Nothing wrong with KB Hypers as long as you're not boosting or hitting it with spray. I've beat...

Lock out the timing completely. You aren't spending much time down in an RPM range where centrifugal advance matters anyway. Then tune it- carb, timing, etc. Get the most out of it without spending a ton of bucks. And don't be afraid of shifting it higher than 6000. If it's just coming to...

Can't say for sure what the HP limit of a TH350 is since I've never found it. Finding a guy who can set it up right seems to make all the difference in the world. I've broken professionally built transmissions just playing around town, and I've got a few built to nearly stock specs that have...

I use Red pumps as boosters for mechanical pumps, especially when using stock 3/8" fuel lines. Having a booster back by the tank instead of relying on the mechanical pump to "suck" the fuel that whole distance makes a HUGE difference. Gone well over 500HP on several nitrous cars using this...

Given this is not going to be a race car I'll be the only one in this thread to throw up a caution about doing anything bigger than it needs to be. Bigger blowers CAN make more power but they definitely suck more power, take up more real estate and are less responsive in the lower RPMs (don't...

Some aftermarket lower control arms have mounting tabs for the bar on the bottom of the arm instead of on the side of/through the arm. Haven't compared them side-by-side but I bet that would drop the bar at least a fraction of an inch from the stock location. If it's a real sqeaker of a touch...

I had an MSD 6-series go flaky on me in the same way you describe- popping and missing under load below about 3000-3500, fine above that. In my case it also had a miss when revved over 5K under no load. If you've got a module to put in the distributor (or a spare HEI distributor laying around)...

If the cam happens to drop in dead-on spec, there is zero to be gained. Most of the time (95%) they drop in +-2*. Nothing you'll ever notice on the street or, frankly, at the strip with most combos. But there are those times when something is really out of whack that you'll be glad you caught...

You need a Vortec-style (4-bolt) intake. It's not so much the bolt pattern that makes the big difference- it's the fact that Vortec-style heads have the roof of the intake port considerably higher than older 6-bolt style heads. Not only will it cause a wicked port mismatch, it might not even...

GUYS- HE'S JUST GOT A LITTLE PEA-SHOOTER 396/402 UNDER THOSE HEADS! Anyone want to do a re-think here? Starting at a true 11:1 with the small chamber heads (97cc) I calculate roughly a 2 FULL POINT DROP going to (~118cc) open chamber heads.

It's airflow in cubic feet per minute, as stated above. For all 4bbl carbs that is measured at 1.5" of vacuum under the carb, throttles wide open. 2bbl carbs are measured in the same manner but using 3" of vacuum underneath. There's more to it than just the throttle bore diameter that affects...