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Oooooh I'm gonna get some fancy carbon fiber support braces for mine :lol:

The regular glass is actually harder to come by from what I've seen - more landau cars around than std. It is possible to convert a car with landau glass to std. though, you remove the sheetmetal spot welded in behind the landau b-piller trim.

Mine is a peg leg right now so it just spins :P I think I'm holding out til I get a stronger axle though, unless I find a screamin' deal on a rebuildable carrier.

Aligned said car with new tie rod ends... drives much more gooder, no more random jerks to the left or right when I'm driving \:D/

A lot of bottles have a guide for ratio vs temperature... I would shoot for whatever would be safe for your record low temperatures.

Pretty sure the jacket goes down almost all the way to the pan rail, so pretty much from the water pump holes in the block to the pan rail. I'm not sure about earlier blocks, but later model blocks have plugs on either side, one side is usually used for the knock sensor, but if you drain from...

Yeah that should work fine. Looks like it has the clock in the tach too, which is a bonus, they're not as common.

The Montes and El Caminos are the only direct fit, and there were 3 (or 4 depending on how you look) housings/styles that come to mind... 1st is the wide sweep (optional clock opposite the fuel gauge), 'round gauge' cluster that had just warning lights in the oil/temp/volts locations... next in...

I took the two tie rod ends off and bought replacements, still need to transfer the turnbuckle over and reinstall.

Sticky :D

Monte Carlo is the same if you didn't know. I believe the bulk of the ducting is the same on all, with the last several inches being routed to the vents for each individual dash. I used the original '78 ductwork in mine, and the LeMans dash had some short round tubing to the vents. Other than...

That'd be sweet :D

Only downside is they're also leaf spring axles. Another option is an 8.5" B-Body rear, but would be a bit of work because the angle of the upper ears is different (heim joints), plus I think you would need adjustable arms.

Bummer... it's in the 60s at night here, somewhere in the low 80s right now :D

It will probably be a 20 or 25 amp, unless someone used a smaller fuse. I believe there are diagrams on the main MR page that will show what circuit is for each.

Yes, very nice indeed :D I have to replace that section over the axle, so I'm thinking of a mini-tub for wider wheels/tires down the road.

Yes, the S10, G-Body, F-Body, and I believe even 7.5 gears from B-Bodies can be used.

I used it too for mine, just made sure I cleaned both halves very well. I didn't use a gasket at the firewall.

Have you also checked this out? http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/

Would it still work with the factory horn? I've thought of this myself, just another security measure.