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I have almost this exact setup except I think I'm around 9-9.5:1... rotating assy. that's original to the 1988 block (had it balanced), junkyard Vortecs and a Comp XE268. Runs on 87 all day, pulls hard all the way to 5k, with the stock .040" gaskets to boot (probably .060" quench! This was...

Also another note, engine lift points are different from older heads, they aren't lifted by the intake bolts anymore, rather brackets on the block.

I have an off idle stumble with mine too, but mine is from a junkyard and it's over 10 years old. I have a rebuild kit and plan on getting a tuning (along with electric choke) kit for it.

If you look here near the bottom you'll see they have a gear "kit" only for the 3.50 1st gear Saginaws, at a pretty hefty price. At that point I would look for a T10. They're stronger and I believe you can get hard parts for them too.

I'd say try to find a 3-line 4-speed, it will make things much more enjoyable with what you have... basically 1-2 will be split and 2-3 will be split - very nice gear spacing.

I kinda figured that may be what was happening... I think it may be getting hot. The distributor is a unit I got from eBay, and I just dropped it in. I may try to find a used performance one or one from a junkyard... or just put some new heatsink compound on this one if I can find some.

Bah... I don't like that those were down by the starter to start with. I had one go out after one appeared to have rubbed or burned through the heat shield I was using next to the headers, and toasted a link. It was stuck on the side of the road and as a band-aid I ran them directly to the...

Drat. What about slow-blow type fuses?

I think for mine I'm going to do a fuse block for each of the wires... beats splicing in another fusible link imo.

No problem :) The OE fusible link looks like this, a small plastic/rubber cylinder around the wire: Sometimes if it's been replaced and burns up it looks like this: If you don't have a fusible link or fuse in-line here, you risk a fire if it grounds on something.

Yeah, that's why I was asking, it's pretty dry and I want to keep water out of the cabin area.

Yeah, that's why I was asking, it's pretty dry and I want to keep water out of the cabin area.

Did you check the fusible links? They're typically down on the starter.

Is the sealer on the door hinge plates in the door jamb itself (what the hinge bolts to) the same as the rest of the seam sealer used on the body? I would like to clean/redo that area on the body before I put the doors on.

It's shared with the cigarette lighter I believe.

If you can find a good set of real ('96+) Vortec heads at a junkyard & bolt a carbed intake to that with a mild cam you'll have a decent little runner :)

Sounds like everything's covered, I don't know if the cam has a mechanical lobe, otherwise it would just be intake/carb/distributor swap. Why are you going to carb? What's this for?

What are other specs on the cam? Sounds good :D \:D/

My '80 had a set of Keystones like this when I got it, the lugs were in the center of the hole.

Actually you should be able to simply remove it and run a shorter belt.