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Wagons never came with EFI, so it'd be interesting to see what he did to make it all fit. There are a variety of pumps that will fit the hanger... TBI, TPI, Vortec, etc. Are you having any fueling issues or upgrade plans? I have a stock '97 Vortec pump behind a 383, so far no issues.

Re: Aftermarket EFI... troubleshooting, diagnostics, and ser I use an EBL (Embedded Lockers) setup from DynamicEFI.com in my '92 Sierra, liquidh8 uses/used one in his Malibu and plans to use it in his turbo Buick wagon too I think. Bob (aka RBob on thirdgen.org) has a few versions available...

They claim it's capable of up to 80hp more than a stock intake. Is this it? http://tpis.com/parts/view/33 You'll be able to tell more once/if you pull the distributor/valve covers. Is the engine in the car? If so it will be much easier to see down inside... if you pull the distributor and...

Sweet :D What are your drivetrain plans for that car? turboturboturboturboturboturboturboturboturbo

What wound up being the culprit?

Holy cow... 2k? What was wrong?

The pink/white wires are from the ignition module to the coil, it's what actually triggers the coil. The ECM would still fire the injectors.

Oh I see you spotted he bars I mentioned.... I think they bolt to the cowl, the area the hood seal sits on. A little trick... get some tubing, cut t to length, and squish the ends flat in a vice. Drill appropriate holes & grind the ends similar to he original bars (somewhat round) and there's...

Here's one :)

Re: Upcoming 70 LT1 Vette project You mean like the LS6? ;)

Re: Upcoming 70 LT1 Vette project Is it the old LT1?

Re: Upcoming 70 LT1 Vette project This will be awesome :D

Steering wheel cover! ;)

I don't know if it affects the wheel, but mine was the same way, I sprayed a liberal amount of carb/brake parts cleaner on a rag and rubbed it down real good. It was a stock steering wheel so I wasn't worried about it hurting it... seemed to do the job up until I replaced it.

I'm thinking of going LEDs on mine.

You could try shorting the wire to ground at the sending unit and see if moving the wires around make a difference, but those center 4 don't usually go bad, they're basically just ohmmeters (besides the voltmeter of course).

It could be the sending unit, if it does the same thing every time you put gas in.

Yes. If you look at the home page of this site there is a link, "idiot lights to gauges", it will show where you need to add the wire. It IS possible the wire is already there and you would just need to connect it to the distributor.

I'm assuming you added the wire needed for the tach, correct? The tachs in the old G-Bodies are prone to malfunction... either reading high, being completely inoperable, or pegging at max rpm reading, all are related to the circuit board on the back of the tach.

While you have the pod out, carefully follow all the traces on the back of the cluster to make sure none are corroded