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I think an iPod may be too wide, but I'm pretty sure the warning lights are replaceable, just pull them out of the sockets.

Malibu? It may just have a center speaker in the dash (4x10), or outside speakers (3½"). The lower front of the door panel is a popular place too, just be sure to get a pair of those foam speaker protectors to keep water from running down onto the cone/voice coil area...

You could probably make a trip to the junkyard and take pictures/notes of a malibu/el camino/monte carlo with the same cluster.

I don't know what size the dimensions are, but the later S10s, full size trucks and LS1 ('98+) F-Bodies used a hydraulic bearing that may be a cheap alternative...

Follow the traces to the terminals of the board where it would connect to the harness, hopefully you at least still have that. The pink/black is power, solid pink is sending unit, black is ground. After the gauges in mine started getting poor connections (30 years of Michigan, etc.) I decided...

Since G-Bodies never came with a hydraulic clutch it's unlikely, you'll probably need to run a hydraulic throwout bearing with longtubes if you keep your current bellhousing.

That metal one is the one I originally mentioned.

The vertical axis is degrees advance. My table looks nothing like that now though. I suppose I could pull timing back and see if it makes a difference, but the fact is still that it was only on a plug or two. If the timing doesn't make a difference I may try a junkyard coil and see what that...

So I checked both the plug and the wire, and their resistance is right around what I've read they should be (plug is about 4.5-5k ohms, wire is about 1.5k, checked both against another plug/wire). Funny thing is I picked up two plugs to replace the ones that had stuff on them, and one of them...

Mine was just as bad, I picked up a crack free dash from a LeMans at the junkyard.

That makes me feel better, I was thinking it was oil. I've had a few hits of detonation trying to dial in my timing with the computer, could that cause something like this? Within the distributor's limits I can program it to basically any amount of advance I want, referencing the MAP reading...

I had a rear shock come off the axle while going down the road a couple years ago, sucker made a horrible racket when it started dragging. I must not've tightened the nut enough or something... I thought it was pretty tight. One thing's for sure, I tightened that sucker down good next time around!

Sounds feasible... I drove it quite a bit last night and it didn't miss anymore, but I've driven it that much before and it didn't miss... it's that intermittent. It has an MSD coil and I've been thinking of getting a high performance module to take advantage of the coil.

Me too. If they all looked like that I wouldn't be as concerned. I don't think it's rings because I've been there before... aka 1qt. every 100 miles with another engine :shock: I don't know the actual mileage on the heads, but I may have also fudged the seal reaplacement a little.

There was another with a tiny bit on it, but it wasn't this bad. I'm REALLY hoping it's valve seals, the engine only has about 13,000 miles on it. This is what the rest looked like: Aaaaaaaand I gave the underside of the hood a much-needed scrubbing.

I'm not sure if t's the cause (wouldn't surprise me) but a little something was caked on one of the plug grounds. Made sure the rest were all clean, and away I go. I have a pic just gotta upload it.

FYI this is on my truck (383, TBI, Vortec heads). Over the past few weeks I've been getting a slight miss at light/part throttle acceleration somewhere between 1600-2000. It's very intermittent so I haven't let it get to me too much, but today I had a flat out backfire. Immediately afterward it...

It's very reachable, especially with those AFR heads. About 230º/236º at .050" will put you in the 450hp range. Also mock up the crank/rods/pistons (don't need the lifters, rings, etc.) with the timing set and cam to verify clearance. BTW welcome :) What are your plans for the car?

How much did that cost you? Can they change it to a quick ratio unit?