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Get pics! :D

I should've clarified :lol: I don't know much about BOP engines at all.

Somebody mentioned they don't have NSS-es at one time, the key is physically prevented from turning by the column... whether this is true I'm not 100% sure. Far as the backup light, it should be the two in-line connectors at the center of the switch in this pic. I remember it used the same...

I'm not sure if GM ever had any production alternators that charged? The alternator world is one of those dark arts that I haven't really looked into so I couldn't say with confidence either way. I believe there are some how-tos on the net showing how to convert, but I could be wrong.

I'd like to get a used/core trans and rebuild it for my truck. The days of the current one are numbered with the 383.

I would say the only advantages of a 350 to a 700 are cost, and the availability of a trans brake for racing.

I think a 350 and 700 could be built similarly. There are a lot of places advertising builds capable of 600hp.

I've never heard of a cylinder head having plugs in the ends. Pics?

I've thought something that followed the body lines would look decent, like what's available for the Fox Bodies.

Ditto on a too-tall WRX scoop, plus it doesn't have the depth I'd want. The newer Tacoma scoops don't look too bad though.

I'd like to put something on the hood of my truck... everybody has cowl hoods and i don't want to look like every other Joe Schmo with a cowl hood on an otherwise stock truck.

That looks like a Mustang scoop to me, but I'm not positive. This is a '69 390 scoop. I wouldn't mind a Saleen 302 scoop from the newer cars though.

If Corvette manifolds fit, it looks like they're a pretty good manifold, especially if you are dropping in a stock engine. http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ls1_engine_header_test/viewall.html

Happy new year to you too \:D/

I've never been 100% sure on the newer ones, I just remembered reading about the resistance or light. I have a Haynes manual that shows the light going to whichever terminal the brown wire goes to. I burned up several alternators in the course of a week due to what I thought was the electric fan...

The light should only be on when the ignition's on and the engine isn't running. The light typically provides the resistance I mentioned. The circuit for the alternator typically goes: Switched 12v source -> alternator light -> excite wire http://www.hotrodlane.cc/newhtml/smallalt.html...

Yes, 3rd is 1:1. 700R4s are .7:1, pretty negligible between the two. 2nd gear is fairly similar between them, but 1st gear is 11.7% deeper in the 700R4. If you ran a 2004R you would have a 43% 1-2 rpm drop, the 700R4 would have a 47% drop. Not a huge difference, but a difference nonetheless.

It doesn't look awful bad to me, I still have my own to tear out and redo though :roll: I've read some people say you can scrub with some soap and a scotchbrite pad as well... I'll probably be trying this method myself, and just dying everything black.

You can use the mounting kit for later Monte Carlo/El Camino in a Malibu, same dash. :lol: Just saw it's an old post #-o

I need to upgrade the power/grounds in my truck... have a little bit of alternator noise (it's different than whining) so a body ground upgrade is in order.