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I'm reading this right now, learning a bit myself. Also talk to D&A Machine Shop on here, he may have some good Vortec info for you. http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56505

I've come across a few online, so they're out there, I'll do a little lookin' & see if I can find 'em.

I'd say some port work (more on the exhaust side) & screw-in studs.

It looks to me like it uses the OE motor. If so it's not a bad deal at all, I like easily serviceable stuff :)

For a 230rpm difference you could probably make that up in tire size until you change the driveline setup.

The port on the carb should be fine. I'm with Tommy & trying a vacuum reservoir if you don't want to change the engine combo. Far as vacuum rising/falling, there isn't any vacuum on acceleration, only time you would have vacuum is at cruise for the most part. You will also get a little extra...

Did you find the wiring diagrams at the main site page?

I was flipping through Super Chevy at Wal Mart and saw it last night, looks great! Mine is the same way, it sits low. I had a bolt from the seat I was able to use to keep it close to the floorboard, I haven't dragged it yet I don't think, although I've found a speedbump or two with my driver's...

I had my TBI heads rebuilt back in '02 at a local shop for $200-$250 I believe... new guides/seals.

I'm not sure if you've made progress yet, but you should be able to use a harness from just about any G-Body, you could get one from a junkyard if you so decide, just be sure to get both the engine compartment-side and the interior-side.

Darwinskeeper has been talking about that same Malibu. Pretty sweet that he managed those times + gas mileage. On another note, with the old '78 stock 305 (#5 intake lobe was half-worn, but overall it still ran pretty decent), headers + 2¼" exhaust, Holley Street Dominator II (low-rise dual...

Yes, I'd likely ground one leg of the clutch switch and run the other leg to the relay, instead of snaking an extra +12v wire around pieces of bare metal. At the very least, then if the wire wound up getting chafed somehow it would just engage the relay instead of popping a fuse, etc. Either...

Yep, I would be re-wiring it, since the clutch switch on the G-Bodies simply break the circuit to the starter. Nothing complicated :D

I'm assuming at least someone has done it, I'm just curious how it worked out for them. By controlling launch rpm I mean a switch is flipped to arm the setup, and when the pedal is pressed rpm is limited to the first limit. When the pedal is released on launch the high-rpm limit kicks in.

I did something similar for the alternator, but it was in the process of swapping in a serpentine setup.

If you get the engine side of the harness from a donor car of similar year... i.e. post-'81 or pre-'81 (I'm not sure what year they started with computer controls), you should have no troubles swapping a replacement in. They are separate from the harness to the interior, held in place by a bolt...

Everything in the 2nd pic looks alright to me... the last red wire, does it have continuity to the other red wires that go to the battery? I had an issue with that wiring down to the starter. Heat from the headers burned through the insulation on a couple wires, and it killed power to the car...

w00t for my first try... GBodyParts :D I think they'll look pretty sweet \:D/ http://www.gbodyparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=47_48_64_65&products_id=37&osCsid=6fbc2e3733edb200687dfb9faff34872

I would think it's metallic but don't know for sure. I think that shade of brown would look awesome in a metallic finish, almost to the point I'd consider going from green to brown on the 'Bu.

You'll probably have a few odds & ends for the install (clamps/hangers), but I don't think there'll be anything out of the ordinary.