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Yeah, I guess I'm not part of the target audience :lol: Now, if they made a 17" version of the G-Body/Nova rally wheel... :mrgreen: \:D/

I was looking at the Rock Auto site, and came across something I didn't know about/realize... apparently there was a 'heavy duty' brake option on only the '79-'80 Malibu. Could this have been part of the deal on the 9C1 Malibus? Up until now the only ones I knew of were single- and...

I believe some are running a 9" wheel in the front, but you lose turning radius. Ride height seems to be a factor too, I'd like to try to remedy that with a set of wheel tubs in place of the stock wheelwells. Not a bad look, but I'm not sure I'd spend upwards of $900 on them :shock:

Take a look at this article. Doesn't go into extreme detail about Vortecs, but gives an idea of how easy it is to make power with a set. I based my motor off it and it's an excellent runner :D http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_0403_350ci_small_block_chevy_engine/index.html They also...

I have a carbed intake on mine, I don't think I've hit 6k, but it's probably been to 5,500... most of the time it's been spinning the tire(s) though. The heads I bought from the junkyard, disassembled/cleaned/reassembled, and installed with the cam. Ran it for 2 summers so far without any...

MS is no less involved than DynamicEFI far as I can tell. Best bet is to probably retrofit a stock TPI harness and burn the chip you need.

It's my first set of headers. You'll typically have inherent 'header' evils with just about any set (fighting with header bolts, spark plugs/wires, etc.), but overall I don't think they're too bad (i.e. no worse than any other header in the same price range) for a G-Body.

They're about the same price. For some reason the painted version isn't listed on Summit's site. http://www.jegs.com/i/Hooker+Headers/520/2451/10002/-1

I've had the 2451s for about 8 years now. They're rusty (ceramic coating flaked off), but they don't leak.

Re: How much lif for Vortec 906 heads?? I have a Comp XE268 in mine (.477/.480) without any problems. Excellent street manners.

I just have a set of OE-style Accel 8mm wires, and the fit is definitely tight on #6, couldn't imagine it with a larger boot :shock:

I have them, they fit just fine. A couple spark plugs are a pain to get to (especially #8), but when isn't that an issue with a set of SBC headers?

I believe the header panel itself is the same, so you'd only need the bezels & grille, maybe the center marker lights. Worth a shot shrug.gif

If you flip the switch 180º from the picture you'll see a little button-looking piece with a spring under it. Pull the switch to the 'on' position, push that button, tug a little and you should feel it come out a hair more (possibly all the way, I don't remember for sure, only done it once or...

Mine fit excellent. Just gotta snake 'em in carefully :)

The G-Body ones had two wires, one goes to the tach terminal on the cap, and the other goes to the tach itself. The bracket it's made with is grounded to the firewall. I'm guessing it looks vaguely similar to this? I'm running mine without a filter and it doesn't make a difference.

Yes to both :) You can buy an adapter-style gear that will bolt to the 2-series carrier, or a spacer to fit the current gear set. I'd personally choose running an adapter gear.

Wagons were never built with EFI, so you'll need to come up with another solution. Some have the tank sumped, some run a fuel cell that's already sumped.

So I'm going to need either a)a rebuild on my current shifter, or b)a replacement shifter for the 'Bu before it's driven regularly. I finally decided to look a little further into the shifter body issue because I never knew for sure if my current shifter was the original for the car. Read on...

I just went through a bunch of researching on Hurst part numbers & their application because I couldn't figure out what my current shifter is from/for... http://www.maliburacing.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=89181