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Have you looked at DynamicEFI as well? You can use the original ECM housing and the learning curve isn't quite as steep (I don't think anyway).

You can get an aftermarket TBI intake for your motor, or you should even be able to use the OE intake, the bolt holes should be the same. If you're up for a steep learning curve, http://www.dynamicefi.com/ It expands the functionality of a stock TBI unit drastically... rev limiters, data...

I'm still considering going with the incognito look on the '78 while it has the older SBC in it... can't hide much when you've swapped an LS motor in :roll:

Re: Update 11-11-09 The housing is completely different inside. You might be able to get ahold of blownbigblock to see if he could make you a plate for it though. He made a bunch a while back for the wide speedo clusters.

The one I posted is mine, yes. :)

If I read everything right in the past the Vortecs got their design from LT1 heads, so there may not be a huge advantage to running a carbed LT1 as opposed to a pair of Vortecs with a carbed intake.

I thought that wagon was a toy at first :shock: :lol:

I've also been concerned about starting it on the snout straight, and what may happen if it winds up going on even slightly crooked...

Reason I suggested replacement is if the line is rusted, it may not hold up to that pressure it could hold 26+ years ago.

Not really Calendar material, but I finally got some rattle-can special pics :)

tongue_nah_nah.gif

x2, but I'm gentle... :lol:

When you asked why I was going to say coil packs flipped around, but you posted the answer before I got back to reading this :cry:

Computer itself not firing the coils like it's supposed to?

Stick 'em in the freezer :D

Bad ground? Carbed or injected? Needmoarinput! 8)

Some looking in the parts section got me thinking... is there a dust shield that will fit a G-Body bellhousing with a 1-piece rms motor? The one I was using with the old 305 won't fit properly because of the lip on the oil pan. I was thinking maybe a later F-Body one, but I don't know for sure...

Due to the higher pressure I'd feel safer running a new supply line personally, but you could use the evap vent line on the driver's side for a return.

Talking about mine? I haven't really checked it for rigidity, may do that when I take everything apart to do the '78 though.

I've done a couple with a rubber mallet, then started tapping around the hub while applying a small amount of torque to the balancer bolt because I didn't want to strip the threads in the snout. Now that I know the tool exists I'll likely get it when I build my next motor.