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I used the original crossmember with some 3"x4"x.125" tubing and it doesn't seem like it flexes much at all to me. This is the only pic I have of it currently:

Well this sort of answers my question how an LS motor will sound with the Pypes system I have :D Looks and sounds just wonderful :awesome:

What do you have in mind for the floor, if anything? I'd always be afraid of kicking up rocks/dust while painting.

Thanks :) I finally found an answer :D I didn't realize it was such a simple equation though :shock: http://www.centuryspring.com/pdfs/techfaqs.pdf "Cutting springs generally decreases the number of active coils. This forces an increase in spring rate. The spring rate is proportional to 1/Na...

I still don't see how distance from equilibrium is any different between two separate springs of different length that have the same spring rate, i.e. a 100 lb/in spring will compress the same whether it is 8" tall or 15" tall, the variable k is what would need to change for the spring to be...

That's a purty wagon :D

The spoiler is the same one you can get from a few different companies http://www.laureneng.com/1275803.html http://www.dixiemontecarlo.com/items/DM10169.html http://store.honestcharley.com/malibu-78-84/air-dams-bumpers-grilles/

I don't have a welder or access to one, so I used a little clamp from Jegs that holds it in place.

I'm not sure how I missed this one :shock:

As long as the wire isn't on the side of the switch that powers the car, it will be fine :)

For the switch to effectively kill power to the whole car the alternator wire has to be connected to the battery side of the switch, otherwise the car will keep running. I don't know what the rules are about this though.

See, I've never understood where the stiffer rate supposedly comes from by just cutting the spring. It's shorter, but that's about it. The metallurgy and wire diameter are exactly the same, it's just x amount shorter shrug.gif

Hopefully everything seats right :) It's possible the expected clearance was tight, and rust on the drums made the hub just large enough where the wheel wouldn't seat properly without some coercion.

Yeah, give the fuel filter a check, if gas has been sitting it could be a cause.

"Doesn't shut off", is it sputtering? If it's sitting parked and you flip the throttle quickly under the hood, what does it do?

Yep, dead or not charging because of another reason.

Easiest thing if you can't find one may be to just pick up an external 3½" drive. http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=6307436&type=product&id=1074787976171 That, or find someone with a 3½" drive (I happen to have one, but it's way up in MI in a parts bin) and a CD burner, they should...

Hey look he's back :D I haven't seen your posts here in a long time :shock:

I have one, and coupled with a larger diameter front bar, shorter/stiffer springs, and a pair of F41 front braces mine handles like it's on rails compared to how it used to ride.

If you are running the stock T56 bellhousing + hydraulics, I believe you would just need the same adapter used to adapt a Saginaw, T10, Muncie, etc. to an LS motor. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1081557-gm-extended-pilot-busing.html More specifically...